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Torta di porri (Tuscan Leek Pie)

This recipe for Tuscan leek pie comes from the Florentine chef and food historian Giuliano Bugialli. He is one of my favorite Italian cookbook authors but is relatively little known, particularly as compared with his near contemporary Marcella Hazan. Bugialli produced a number of wonderful cookbooks, some beautifully illustrated, some not, but all grounded in […]

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Quick Note: Frittata di maccheroni avanzati

Leftover pasta is generally pretty bad when reheated. But there is one great way to recycle leftover pasta: as a frittata. All you do is mix your leftovers with eggs and grated cheese, perhaps some minced parsley for color, and a bit of salt and pepper if it needs it. Then proceed as you would […]

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Barchette di radicchio (Manu’s Radicchio “Boats” Filled with Mascarpone, Gorgonzola and Glazed Walnuts)

It will only be a quick post this busy holiday weekend, dear readers, but I didn’t want to let too much time pass without making good on my promise to prepare at least one dish from fellow blogger Manuela Zangara’s holiday cookbook. My choice, her recipe for these pretty radicchio “boats”, typifies the kind of […]

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Pallotte cacio e uova (Cheese and Egg Balls)

An iconic dish from the Abruzzo region in the cucina povera tradition, pallotte cacio e uova—cheese and egg balls—probably got its start as a way to use up leftover bits of cheese and stale bread. The mixture is then bound together with egg and formed into balls and, just like meatballs, fried and simmered in […]

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Gattò di patate (Potato “Cake”)

Another example of the French Bourbon legacy in Neapolitan cooking, this gattò—from the French gateau—is a savory ‘cake’ made of mashed potatoes enriched with eggs, butter and grated cheese, a mixture you may remember from our recipe for crocchè di patate (Potato Croquettes). The filling for this cake is a combination of cheeses and cured […]

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Zabaione (Zabaglione)

Zabaione is  a classic sweet that you don’t encounter much any more on restaurant menus, let alone on home tables. That’s a shame, because it’s truly delicious and supremely versatile, equally suited to serve on its own as a sweet ending to an important meal or a warm and substantial beverage drunk as a quick […]

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Bruschetta

Bruschetta is a dish of such astonishing simplicity that you might say it’s not even worth blogging about. After all, the authentic, basic bruschetta is nothing more or less than grilled bread, rubbed with garlic and drizzled with olive oil, seasoned with a sprinkling of salt. And besides, there are a million paper and online […]

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Taralli dolci, or “Nana’s Cookies”

This is a recipe near and dear to my heart. It was one of Angelina’s signature dishes. When I was a kid, our family called these “Nana’s Cookies”, and I really thought that only my nana made them. Well, just as I found out that the honey balls Angelina made for Christmas were  actually called […]

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Crocchette di patate (Potato Croquettes)

Crocchette di patate are wonderfully versatile. They are probably most often served as an antipasto, but they can also do fine service as a lovely contorno, especially with fried meat or fish dish, or as part of a fritto misto, or as a first course instead of pasta, which is how we enjoyed them today, […]

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Farinata genovese (Genovese Chickpea Flatbread)

One of the iconic dishes of Ligurian cuisine, just as typical of the region as pesto, la farinata genovese deserves to be better known. It has a wonderful, mildly nutty flavor that marries well with just about anything you want to serve it with, but it is perfectly delicious on its own, as an antipasto […]

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Mozzarella in carrozza (Fried Mozzarella Sandwiches)

Don’t know about you, but I love cheese. Just about any kind. In our house we tend to eat more cheese during the cool winter months, but the arrival of warm weather doesn’t mean we give up cheese altogether. Far from it. Rather, aged cheese tends to give way to fresh cheeses like ricotta and—especially—mozzarella. […]

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Uova in salsa verde

Uova sode in salsa verde (Hard Boiled Eggs in ‘Green Sauce’)

Salsa verde, literally ‘green sauce’, is a quick, parsley-based raw condiment, intensely flavored with garlic, anchovies, capers, a dash of vinegar and, if you like, a pinch of hot red pepper, all bathed in fruity olive oil. It  is a culinary cousin to other such sauces like the Sicilian salmoriglio or the Argentinian chimichurri and the […]

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Pizza rustica

Pizza rustica (Easter Cheese and Salumi Pie)

Today is Pasquetta, or ‘Little Easter’, known in English as Easter Monday. A holiday in Italy and much of Europe, folks traditionally take to the roads to drive out to the countryside and enjoy a fresh air picnic. In Campania and elsewhere, one favorite item in the Pasquetta picnic basket is the pizza rustica, literally […]

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Pizza di scarola (Escarole Pie)

The word pizza in Italian has a broader meaning than it does in English. Besides the savory disk we all know and love, it also refers to both savory and sweet confections that we would likely call ‘pies’ in English, including Angelina’s pizza dolce, which doesn’t even have a crust. Then there’s the classic pizza rustica, […]

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Torta di mele (Apple Torte)

A quick post as we prepare to batten down the hatches before Sandy hits town: Here’s a homely version of an apple torte that could hardly be easier. And believe me, if a non-baker like myself can make this with no trouble at all, you will, too. You just make a simple batter in your […]

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Focaccia al rosmarino (Rosemary Flat Bread)

A short post this week. Things are crazy. Here’s another great snack you can make starting with a basic pizza dough, whether homemade or store-bought: spread it out on a cookie sheet or shallow rectangular baking pan, poke it all over with your fingers, then top with rosemary, sale grosso, pepper and a good drizzle […]

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Pizzette fritte (Little Fried Pizzas)

I’ve said before and I’ll say it again: is there anything more primally satisfying than fried dough? If there is, I haven’t come across it yet. The Neapolitans have come up with all sorts of tidbits made from fried dough, of which we’ve already seen two examples, zeppole and calzoncini, where the dough acts as […]

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Calzoncini napoletani (Neapolitan Fried Turnovers)

It probably won’t come as a surprise that Neapolitan cooks have come up with a vast variety of ways to fry and bake dough. Pizza is, by far, the most famous internationally, but there is much more to the Neapolitan repertoire. In fact, in her masterwork, La cucina napoletana, Jeanne Caròla Francesconi devotes a whole […]

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