One of my favorite pastimes in the kitchen is finding ways to make underappreciated and undervalued ingredients shine. I love an underdog. Take celery for example. It shows up in any number of recipes, but almost always in a minor supporting role, either as part of the classic soffritto that … Read More
Fritole alla veneziana (Venetian Carnival Fritters)
In Italy, Carnival, that last blast of excess before the austerity of the Lenten season, is known for fried foods of all sorts, especially sweet ones. I grew up on Angelina’s chiacchiere, the fried dough ribbons typical of southern Italy and beyond, but in Venice and nearby Trieste, they make fritole, … Read More
Panelle (Sicilian Chickpea Fritters)
These Sicilian chickpea fritters, known as panelle in Italian, are often associated with Sicily’s capital city Palermo, where you can buy them sandwiched inside a sesame seed bun at street-side snack bars. But if you can’t get to Palermo any time soon, no worries. Panelle are pretty easy to make at … Read More
Frittelle di pasta cresciuta con zucchine (Zucchini Fritters)
Who doesn’t like fried dough? Certainly no Neapolitan I know. Neapolitan cookery is replete with all sorts of frittelle, or fritters, made from dough. World-renowned zeppole are a favorite treat at street fairs, and for good reason. And the lesser known fried pizzelle fritte and calzoncini are just as delicious. Today we’ll look at … Read More
Cavolini di Bruxelles fritti (Fried Brussels Sprouts)
As the holidays draw to a close, we all want to eat a bit lighter. But with temperatures reaching record lows and snow falling, let’s not make it too light, shall we? Enter Ada Boni, the doyenne of traditional Italian home cooking and author of the iconic Talismano della felicità, … Read More
Salvia fritta (Fried Sage Leaves)
You may love sage like I do, for flavoring stews and beans, or sautéed with melted butter over stuffed pasta. But have you ever considered enjoying sage for its own sake? If you’ve ever experienced the peppery, rather bitter taste raw sage, the thought might not appeal to you. But … Read More
Filetti di baccalà (Fried Salt Cod Filets)
During my years in Rome, I mostly lived on the small but charming piazza di san Paolo alla Regola, not too far from the famous Campo de’ Fiori and its mercato. Along the via dei Giubbonari on the way to the campo, where I usually bought my fruits and vegetables notwithstanding the astronomical prices, there … Read More
Eggplant Cordon Bleu (Cordon bleu di melanzane)
Eggplants may be my favorite summer vegetable. Perhaps that’s because I have such fond food memories of my grandmother’s parmigiana di melanzane, or Eggplant Parmesan. The parmigiana is a lot of work, though, a dish for special occasions, so I’m always looking for different ways to prepare eggplant. One of the … Read More