Simmer the pre-soaked salt cod in enough water to cover for 15 minutes. Francesconi calls for simmering in plain, unsalted water, but I threw in a lemon rind and a few parsley stems leftover from making the sauce (see below). As the salt cod is already salty, this is one case where you don't need or want to salt the water.

Baccala lesso (prep)

Gently remove the cod from its poaching liquid onto a cutting board. Pat dry with paper towels and remove any bones you may find, then divide it into small pieces, discarding the skin if any. (Francesconi admonishes you not to use a knife for this, [although other recipes will tell you to cut the fish into slices].)

Arrange the cod on a serving platter. Taste a bit of the fish to see how salty it is. Now nap the fish completely with a little sauce you will have made from whisking together the minced garlic, parsley, lemon juice, pepper and—if the fish needs it—a pinch of salt.

Serve still warm or at room temperature, with boiled or steamed potatoes as a side if you like.