Heat the milk with a dash of salt and a nice nob of butter. When the milk just comes to the simmer, add the semolina in a slow stream—in Italian they say a poggia or “like rain—into the simmering milk (just like you make polenta). Lower the heat and let the mixture cook until it has become quite stiff, mix in some grated parmesan cheese.

Pour the mixture onto a baking sheet or other flat surface, which you will have lighted oiled or buttered to prevent sticking. Spreading it out thin—about ½ cm (¼ in.) or so thick—and as evenly as you can. (A wet spatula is ideal for this operation.)

Let the semolina mixture cool completely (it speeds things up considerably if you stick the baking sheet into the fridge) and then, using a glass or cookie cutter, cut out disks of the semolina.

Arrange those disks in a buttered baking or gratin dish, layering them in slightly overlapping rows like so many roof tiles. Top with copious amounts of grated parmesan cheese and melted butter. Some recipes also call for grated gruyere which, of course, makes for a richer dish.

You then either bake the gnocchi in a hot oven (200° C, 400° F) or pass it under the broiler until nicely browned on top.

Let the sizzling gnocchi ‘settle’ for a few minutes and then serve them in their baking dish.