In a paiolo or other large pot, preferably made of copper, bring lightly salted water to the simmer. Have some more water on hand, simmering in a saucepan or kettle at the back of the stove.

When the water has come to the simmer, add the cornmeal in a constant but gradual stream, stirring the pot all the while with a whisk or wooden spoon in one direction until all the polenta has been incorporated into the water.

The polenta will soon thicken. Turn down the heat to low immediately; be careful, as polenta has a tendency to spatter if it 'boils'. If this happens, take the pot off heat for a moment and add some water. That will stop the sputtering, and you can return to the heat and continue to stir.

If you have been using a whisk, you will eventually need to switch to a wooden spoon as the polenta thickens. Continue stirring and, when the polenta gets too thick to stir without great effort, add some of the hot water you have kept in reserve and continue to stir. if the heat is low enough and you keep the polenta rather loose by adding water from time to time, you only need to stir every so often—say every 5 minutes or so. The polenta should simmer like this for at least 45 minutes, and it is even better after an hour. The polenta is done when it pulls away from the pot when you run your spoon across the bottom of the pot.