To make the vinaigrette, finely chopped a clove of garlic or pass it through a garlic press (one of the few good uses for that gadget, in my opinion) and place in a mortar (or a mixing bowl). Then add chopped anchovy fillets (either salted or canned will do fine), and grind them together into a paste. (If using a mixing bowl, you can just crush them as best you can with the back of a wooden spoon.) The paste need not be perfectly uniform; in fact, I prefer little bits of anchovy, which is more interesting to the eye and taste.

Thin this paste out with a bit of either white or red vinegar (not too much, remember...) and then add a healthy pour of olive oil. Mix well with a fork or a whisk until well blended but not emulsified.Then season with a bit of salt (not too much as the anchovies, of course, are already salty) and freshly ground pepper.

Pour over your greens and mix well. Adjust for seasoning and, if a bit dry, you can add a bit more olive oil. Serve with crusty bread so you can sop up the delicious dressing.