To make this dish, you start as so many Italian dishes do, with a soffritto: sauté the garlic and peperoncino (or red pepper flakes) in olive oil and, when you just begin to smell the garlic, add chopped fresh or (out of season) canned tomato, along with the sprig of rosemary, if using. (If using canned tomatoes, you can just simply squeeze them through your hands as you add them to the pot; crushed tomatoes will also do.) Simmer the tomato for a few minutes, until it has melted and reduced into a sauce like consistency.

Add bread cubes mixing well so that they all get anointed with the tomato. Then add enough water or broth, mixing all the while, for the bread to start to come apart and form a fairly firm, uniform 'mush'. (It should be firm enough to eat with a fork, although you should use a spoon.)

Continue simmering for about 5 minutes, then add the fresh basil leaves if using—no need to tear or chop them—stir and then take the pot off the heat and cover. Allow the pappa to rest at least 20-30 minutes and serve, topped with un filo d'olio and (if you're a pepperhead like me) freshly ground pepper.