Get the penne cooking in well-salted boiling water while you make the sauce.

Sauté the garlic and peperoncino in abundant olive oil as if you were making an ajo e ojo—but add as much hot pepper as you like. Remember, this dish is not called 'angry' penne for nothing! Then, before either the garlic or the peperoncino have a chance to brown too much, add either fresh tomatoes that have been skinned, seeded and chopped (see Notes below) or, if good fresh tomatoes and out of season or otherwise unavailable, canned tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper.

Simmer until the tomatoes have completely 'melted' into a sauce and separated from oil. Taste and adjust for seasoning. (You can add red pepper flakes if the sauce is not spicy enough for you.)

Add the penne—cooked very al dente—to the sauce, allowing it to simmer for a few moments, then serve, topped with chopped parsley.