In a braising pan, make a soffritto by sautéing the chopped onion, carrot and celery in a generous glug of olive oil. When the vegetables are soft, add a splash of white wine and let it boil off, then add a few canned tomatoes, squeezed through your hands as you add them to the pot, along with a bay leaf and a pinch of red pepper flakes, if you like. Let the tomatoes simmer gently and reduce until you have a rather thick 'sauce'.