Slice the garlic thinly and mix it in a small bowl with a pinch of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Cutting small slits in the roast with a paring knife, insert the seasoned garlic slices here and there.

Now tie the roast up with kitchen string to help it keep its shape. Salt and pepper the outside of the roast generously.

If you have the time, let the roast rest for an hour or two to allow the seasonings to penetrate the meat.

Heat a Dutch oven (preferably oval) large enough to hold the roast. When it's quite hot, cover the bottom with olive oil, then sauté the roast over medium heat, turning it from time to time, so it browns nicely on all sides. Remove to a plate.

Lower the heat and add the onion, carrot and celery. Sauté gently until soft, taking care that the vegetables don't brown. Add back the roast and let everything sauté together for another 5 minutes or so.

Pour over the wine and turn the roast so it is covered all over with the wine. Let the wine cook off, scraping any brown bits from the bottom of the pot.

Now add the tomatoes, along with the tomato paste if using. If you're using a thick passata, thin it out a glassful of water.

Raise the heat so the pot comes to a simmer, then cover the pot, leaving the cover slightly ajar to allow for some evaporation, and lower the heat.

Let the roast braise over a gentle flame until it is quite tender, turning it every 30 minutes or so. (See Notes for cooking times.) Adjust the heat if need be so that the tomato sauce simmers gently but steadily. The sauce will reduce a bit but don't let it get too thick. Top it up with water or broth as and if needed.

Taste and adjust the sauce for seasoning.

Remove the roast from the pot and let it rest on a cutting board for at least 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, check on the sauce. Taste and adjust for seasoning. It should be quite flavorful. If it's too thick for your taste, dilute it with some water. If you find it too thin, let it simmer further while the roast rests, raising the heat so it reduces quickly. If you like a perfectly smooth sauce, you can pass the sauce through a food mill or purée it with a hand blender.

Remove the string. Slice the roast fairly thickly, arranging the slices on a warmed serving platter, napped with some of the sauce. Serve the rest in a gravy boat for guest to add more, which they are very likely to do.

Stracotto allal fiorentina is typically served with boiled or mashed potatoes or with boiled cannellini beans. Althougn not particulary Tuscan, it is also very good with polenta.