Step 1: Make the crema pasticcera: In a standing mixer bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until smooth and the mixture forms 'ribbons' as the whisk rotates. Then add the flour slowly, bit by bit, into the mixture until fully incorporated.

Meanwhile, heat the milk over moderate heat until hot, almost but not quite at the boil—you will see little bubbles just beginning to form around the edge of the pot. Take the milk off the heat and drizzle it, little by little, into the mixer bowl.

Now pour the whole thing from the bowl into the pot and put it over very gentle heat, mixing continuously with a whisk or wooden spoon. After a while, it should begin to thicken. Keep stirring until the mixture thickens to the point where it coats a spoon nicely. Remove from the heat, stir in the grated lemon zest, and let the mixture cool.

Step 2: Melt the chocolate: Add the cocoa to a small pot with the sugar. Over the moderate flame, add milk, bit by bit, until the mixture turns to a thick but pourable paste.

Step 3: Mise en place: It is now time to arrange all the elements of the dish so you can assemble your dessert. Pour the crema pasticcera into two bowls, with a bit more in one of the bowls. In the bowl containing the lesser half of the crema, whisk in the chocolate paste until fully incorporated. In a small bowl, pour a good bit of your liqueur(s). Now take your sponge cake or pound cake and slice it into 1 cm (1/2 inch) slices. Now you are ready to put things all together. Prepare whatever topping you have it mind.

Step 4: Assemble the dish: Take trifle bowl or other serving container large enough to hold all the ingredients and cover the bottom with a thin layer of the plain crema. Make a layer of cake slices, breaking them up as needed to make a complete layer, like so:

Now drizzle over a bit of the liqueur. No need to drown it. In fact, it helps to use a pastry brush so the slices don't get too soaked. Then add a layer of the chocolate crema.

Repeat making layers in this way until you have run out of ingredients or filled your bowl. End with a layer of the plain crema. Arrange your topping if you want one: sliced strawberries, as pictured above, or sliced almonds or sour cherries or other sorts of berries are all very nice.

Step 5: Rest: Place the bowl in the fridge and let the zuppa inglese rest for a good few hours. Some recipes call for as little as an hour and as much as a whole day. To my mind, 2-3 hours is probably the minimum to allow the flavors to meld and the crema and cake layers to adhere properly. Like a tiramisù, the dish will change in texture the longer it rests, getting softer over time. It's a matter of taste, really, at what point it is at its best.

Step 6: Serving: It is best not to serve this dish right out of the fridge. Take it about 30-60 minutes before you want to serve it, to let it return almost to room temperature so you can better appreciate its flavors.