As you’re reading this, if you happen to live in the English speaking world, you are probably thinking the holidays are over. You may be busy making your New Year’s resolutions and getting back to normal life. And maybe suffering from a slight bout of the post holiday blues?
Well, in Italy, the holiday season is still going strong. Back in the day, in fact, the final and arguably most important holiday of the season was still to come: January 6, the Feast of the Epiphany. As the saying goes, L’ Epifania tutte le feste si porta via— Epiphany carries all the holidays away.
The feast is popularly known as La Befana, after the eponymous witch who—very much like Santa Claus—visits homes, riding on her broomstick rather than a sleigh, bringing sweets and other goodies to all the good little children and coal for the naughty ones.
Like most Italian holidays, La Befana is celebrated with a festive meal. But perhaps because it’s focused on children, most of the dishes associated with the holiday are sweet ones, including the lovely sugar cookies from Tuscany called Befanini.
Befanini are quick and easy to make. Typically cut into festive shapes and topped with colorful sprinkles, they delight children and adults alike. So why not take a cue from the Italians and stretch your holiday season for just a few more days? It’s a lovely way to wrap up the holiday season in dolcezza, as the Italians say, literally as well as figuratively.
Ingredients
Makes about 25 cookies
- 250g (1/2 lb) flour
- 125g (4-1/2 oz) granulate sugar
- 1 tsp baking powder
- a small pinch of salt
- 100g (3-1/2 oz) butter, softened
- 1 egg
- A jigger of rum or anisette
- zest of one orange or lemon
- milk, as needed
For topping the cookies:
- 1 egg white
- Sprinkles
Directions
In a large bowl, food processor or standing mixer, mix together the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Then add the egg, butter, rum, zest and enough milk, as needed, to form a smooth and pliable ball of dough.
Wrap the dough in plastic wrap (cling film) and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out into a thin sheet, not more than 5mm (1/4 inch). Cut the dough into festive shapes using cookie cutters. Gather up the scraps and form them back into a ball, then roll it out and cut it into more cookies. Repeat until you’ve used up all the dough.
Gingerly place the cookies onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush the tops with egg white, then sprinkle them with the sprinkles.
Bake in a moderate oven (180C/350F) oven for about 12-15 minutes, until puffed up and cooked through. Take care not to brown them too much.
Notes on Befanini
Befanini aren’t terribly hard to make. And I say that as someone who is not a baker by instinct or practice. You really only need to bear a few points in mind so they come out perfectly light in color and keep their festive shapes.
Don’t overbrown
First, take care not to overbrown your befanini in the oven. It won’t be the end of the world unless you actually burn them, but befanini are at their best when only very lightly brown. On the other hand, you do want to cook them through, of course. I usually designate one befanino as my test cookie, which I taste for doneness at the low end of the cooking range. If they’re still underdone, I put the cookies back in the oven for another few minutes.
Handle the dough with care
Like many cookie doughs, the dough for befanini tends to be a bit sticky, so flour your surface and rolling pin to avoid it sticking to them. And proceed with due dispatch once you’ve taken the dough out of the fridge, since it becomes difficult to handle as it reaches room temperature. If this happens to you, just put it back in the fridge for a spell and then continue.
Much of the charm of Befanini lies in the different festive shapes—stars, snowflakes, candy canes and so on—you cut them into, so ideally you’ll want a set of holiday themed cookie cutters. And do take care when transferring them from your cutting surface to the cookie sheet lest they become misshapen. If you have one, you can use a dough scraper to get the job done. And if they stick to the cookie cutter, it’s best to place the cutter with the dough still in it on to the baking sheet, then gingerly press the dough down to dislodge it from the cutter.
Variations
While the basic set of ingredients is pretty consistent across recipes, of course there are some variations, in particular in how much butter and sugar to add to the dough. Once you’ve made them once or twice, you can play with both to suit your taste.
Some recipes substitute oil for the butter. And some omit the liqueur in favor of vanilla. Others call for both. The anise flavored Sassolino is another popular liqueur for making befanini, as is, apprpriately enough, Strega. At least one I’ve seen calls for the crimson Tuscan liqueur called alkermes, used among other ways in zuppa inglese, which turns the befanini red.
In one intriguing version, said to be the original one, the befanini are filled with homemade marzipan. Sounds delicious but probably a bit elaborate for most home cooks.
As with any cookie recipe, some reverse the order found in this post and have you mix the wet ingredients first, then add the dry. Either way works, of course. I just find it more intuitive to start with the dry ones.
In some recipes, you brush the cookies with whole egg, will give the cookies a golden hue rather than the snowy white.
Making Befanini ahead
You can make Befanini the day before or even several days ahead. Keep them in a box and they should keep for a week. They will get drier and crunchier, which I actually better.
The La Befana tradition
There is much debate over the origins of the La Befana tradition with an ugly old witch as its slightly frightening but ultimately benign central figure. Many say it has pagan roots as there are similar figures in pre-Christian Germany, Greek, Anatolian and Slavic mythology. Others point out that gift giving was a feature of the new year’s celebration in honor of the ancient Roman goddess Strenia. Just like La Befana celebrations today, her holiday was observed by consuming sweets like figs, dates and honey.
Until relatively recent times, La Befana was a more important holiday than Christmas itself, certainly for kids, since it was on January 6 when they got their toys and other goodies. And it makes sense liturgically, since it was on Epiphany that tradition holds the magi brought gifts to infant Jesus. Over time, as elsewhere in the Western world, Babbo Natale (Father Christmas) stole some of the limelight.
That said, La Befana is still very much a thing. Children hang stockings before bed on the evening of January 5, for La Befana to fill with sweets or coal on her nocturnal fight. And just as it’s customary to leave milk and cookies out for Santa Claus, Italians will set out food for La Befana. Only she gets red wine and savory or sweet foods instead.
La scopetta scacciaguai
Besides her gift giving role, La Befana also brings good luick and well being in the New Year. Or at least she plays a role in keeping bad stuff at bay. Popular around the season are festive little brooms called scopette scacciaguai. You can see ours in the photos for this post. You hang them up around the house to chase troubles away—the literal meaning of the scacciaguai.
For more background on the holidays, take a gander at this adorable video:
Befanini
Equipment
- 1 set of Christmas themed cookie cutters
Ingredients
- 250 g flour
- 125 g granulated sugar
- 1 tsp baking powder
- a small pinch of salt
- 100 g butter, softened
- 1 egg
- 1 jigger rum or anisette
- 1 orange or lemon, zest of
- milk as needed
For topping the cookies:
- 1 egg white
- Sprinkles
Instructions
- In a large bowl, food processor or standing mixer, mix together the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Then add the egg, butter, rum, zest and enough milk, as needed, to form a smooth and pliable ball of dough.
- Wrap the dough in plastic wrap (cling film) and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
- On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out into a thin sheet, not more than 5mm (1/4 inch). Cut the dough into festive shapes using cookie cutters. Gather up the scraps and form them back into a ball, then roll it out and cut it into more cookies. Repeat until you’ve used up all the dough.
- Gingerly place the cookies onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush the tops with egg white, then sprinkle them with the sprinkles.
- Bake in a moderate oven (180C/350F) oven for about 12-15 minutes, until puffed up and cooked through. Take care not to brown them too much.
Nutrition
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These are so charming, Frank, I love how you tied the recipe into the whole La Befana tradition. The cookies themselves look wonderfully simple and festive, and that hint of citrus with the sprinkles is such a classic Italian touch. Definitely tempted to stretch the holidays a little longer just to make a batch.
Thanks, Raymund!
I’ve got lots of festive cookie cutters I could use to make these cookies, including a Santa Claus one (aka ‘Father Christmas’). Do Italians keep the tradition of Santa Claus alive?
Oh yes, definitely. In fact, I’d say these days Babbo Natale (Father Christmas) is bigger than the Befana. But for Italians it’s La Befana that’s the tradition, and Babbo Natale the “newcomer”.
Oh that’s so interesting! Thanks for sharing the background about La Befana…I haven’t heard about her until now. And while she is certainly a bit scarier than Saint Nick, I love the idea of extending the holidays a bit longer. And on that note, these cookies look fantastic. Well done, Frank! (And you claim you aren’t a baker….)
I’m not… but then again with all the baking I’ve been doing lately, maybe I should reconsider. Thanks for the kind words, David!
These look so charming and festive, Frank – such a lovely traditional treat. Wishing you a very happy New Year!
Same to you, Ben!
I love reading about traditions in other countries, thank you Frank for telling us this one. The cookies look delicious and festive.
And thank you for stopping by Eva. Happy New Year!
Such a sweet Italian tradition! Our recipes are almost identical and that makes me feel good! Happy Festa and Blessed Epiphany to you and yours, Frank! Have a delicious 2026!
Roz
It sure is. I always celebrate with a dear Italian-American friend. It’s a lovely way to round out the holiday season. Buona Befana and Happy New Year to you, too.
What a charming story! The cookies are beautiful! I’m familiar with Epiphany but had never heard of La Befana. Thanks for sharing the tradition! Happy New Year!
Thanks, Barb! And Happy New Year to you, too.
Well now I’m all tired out again, finding out that I’m not done with the holidays!!! Beautiful cookies. Happy New Year!
Haha! Living in the States, you can always ignore it. Who’s to know? Happy New Year to you, too, Mimi.
Your Befanini look delicious!
January 6th, Día de Reyes (King’s Day – where the 3 Kings arrive), is the most important present day for Spanish children. There’s a parade in most towns and in Catalunya, this includes gegants (giants). They make a Roscón de Reyes (King’s Cake) for the occasion, containing a tiny ceramic figure of Jesus.
I know of the tradition though I’ve not been to Spain for Epiphany. They do something very similar to France as you may know, with their gallette des roi. That I got to experience when I lived in Paris. And in Piemonte region, where they make “focaccia della Befana”.I was actually debating whether to blog on the focaccia or these this year..
I was discussing this with my Spanish neighbour and we were saying that even in contemporary Spain, Epiphany day is much more felt than Befana day here in Italy.
Growing up in 1970s outside Milano, befana was already a tradition on the wane (and befanini did not exist).
Here in provincial Lucca, befanini are still holding up (they are a Tuscan speciality at the end of the day, I think) but befana has lost out to babbo natale (nativity, il presepe, seems to be still rather strong, as a family tradition).
When well made, I like the unassuming charm of befanini (unfortunately, when mass produced they often feature margarine).
Interesting though a bit sad to see old traditions dying out. And yes, befanini with margarine sound awful!
Awsome cookies!!! Thanks a lot for sharing
You’re welcome! Hope you give them a try.
Knew the name and the meaning and date but have never eaten the very special biscuit! And, coming from Northern Europe the 6th of January or Three Kings Day was/is of special importance also, tho’ Santa appears to hear children’s songs and poems and give them gifts if they vouch they have been good on Christmas Eve. On the 6th the tree comes down and all the cards disappear from view and Christmas in not allowed to be mentioned any more . . . do hope yours was special and the New Year happily celebrated . . . all the very best for that and thank you for all the ‘tuition’ last year . . . so appreciated 🙂 !
What an interesting way to meld Christmas and Epiphany traditions.
Happy New Year to you, too, Eha. Grateful for your loyal readership throughout the past years.
I love a bit of citrus zest in my baked goods. These look delightful Frank. Happy new year!
cheers
sherry
Thanks, Sherry! Same to you.
I would love to try the original recipe with the marzipan — one of my favorite flavors. However, the recipe you have shared looks quite perfect and I may actually get to them for La Befana. I do have some alkermes (from the Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella) — are they really red or just a healthy pink? I used up my homemade alkermes on a zuppa inglese this Christmas. I want to post it (both the liqueur and the zuppa recipes) — I suppose it is “legal” to have it in the spring!? And, as you said, just as I was feeling the relief from the holidays, you remind me that it’s not over until the witch rides! Happy New Year Frank — and I hope La Befana brings you lots of good treats.
I love marzipan, too. As for the alkermes, I imagine they probably turn the cookies pink or light red, not a deep red. There’s only one way to find out… ! And hey, why not make them in the spring with regular cookie cutters and give them another name. WHo’s to know, lol?!
Buona Befana anche a te!
I always tend to bake my sugar cookies way too brown. These look fantastic with colourful sprinkles.
Thanks, Angie! They actuallly taste nice to me even when they are brown, just not quite as pretty.