Everybody, it seems, loves fried calamari. But there are lots of other ways to enjoy this tasty mollusk. It’s delicious braised with peas in the Roman manner, for example, or with greens, after the Florentines. But I think calamari really comes into its own when it’s filled with a savory … Read More
Scrippelle ‘mbusse (Crepes in Broth)
This lovely dish comes to us from the province of Teramo on the eastern slopes of the Gran Sasso in the region of Abruzzo. Scrippelle ‘mbusse, literally meaning ‘wet crepes’ in local dialect, are just that: light crepes (crespelle in standard Italian) that are filled with grated cheese, rolled up … Read More
Cipollata calabrese (Calabrian Style Braised Red Onions)
These days it’s become quite chic to claim one dish or another is an example of la cucina povera, or the cooking of the poor. But this one is the real deal. Cipollata calabrese, Braised Red Onions in the Calabrian Style, got its start as a meal for shepherds while … Read More
Spezzatino di maiale con piselli (Pork Stew with Peas)
All of us—even us “foodies”—need some reliable and straightforward recipes in our lives for everyday cooking. This one for spezzatino di maiale con piselli, or Pork Stew with Peas, fits the bill rather nicely, I think. If you make your stew in a pressure cooker—and like many stews it’s ideal … Read More
Crema di lenticchie ai funghi trifolati
I love all kinds of legumes, but lentils are probably my favorite. Pasta e lenticchie was my favorite pasta growing up, and even now, into my sixth decade of this mortal coil, the love affair hasn’t cooled one bit. There’s something about that earthy taste I find tremendously satisfying and … Read More
Salame di cioccolato (Chocolate Salami)
A salame di cioccolato, or Chocolate Salami, is a charming little dessert, much more delicious than its easy peasy recipe gives it a right to be. This “salami” is actually just dark chocolate whisked with eggs and sugar to form a kind of mousse, then folded with broken up tea … Read More
Gratin di cavolini di Bruxelles e funghi (Brussels Sprouts and Mushroom Gratin)
Properly prepared, Brussels sprouts are a lovely vegetable. Called cavolini di Bruxelles or ‘little cabbages of Brussels’ in Italian, these most elegant of all the cruciferous family of vegetables lend themselves to all sorts of treatments, from a simple sauté to deep frying to this rich and creamy gratin, complemented … Read More
Stuffed Shells (Conchiglioni ripieni al forno)
Long time readers know that at least once a year, around Columbus Day, we feature an Italian-American dish. And here’s one— Stuffed Shells —that, though it wasn’t part of my upbringing, has a special place in the heart (and palates) of many Italian-Americans. As prepared here in the US, Stuffed … Read More