As I’ve pointed out many times over the years, one of the hallmarks of “fake” Italian cookery is its in-your-face use of garlic. Now of course garlic is a common ingredient in Italian cooking. But Italians generally use it with great discretion. A common technique, featured in this blog for … Read More
Girello al limone (Eye Round in Lemon Sauce)
Girello al limone is an unusual dish from Edda Servi Machlin’s fascinating cookbook, The Classic Cuisine of the Italian Jews: Traditional Recipes and Menus and a Memoire of a Vanished Way of Life. This recipe was, for me, full of surprises. I was not quite sure what to expect from … Read More
Ragù di lenticchie (Lentil Ragu)
As long time readers may remember, my very favorite pasta when I was a kid was Angelina’s austerely simple but delicious pasta e lenticchie (Pasta with Lentils). I liked it so much so that most of the time I’d prefer to eat pasta e lenticchie even over her extraordinary Sunday … Read More
Carpaccio di salmone affumicato (Smoked Salmon Carpaccio)
Here’s an elegant yet quick and easy starter that would fit perfectly into just about any menu: Carpaccio di salmone affumicato, or Smoked Salmon Carpaccio. Classic carpaccio, of course, is made with thinly sliced beef. But the term carpaccio has evolved into a kind of passepartout for any number of … Read More
Cardi fritti (Batter-fried Cardoons)
Have you ever tried a cardoon? It’s a unique vegetable that looks like an overgrown celery stalk but tastes like an artichoke, to which, in fact, it is related. Cardoons grow easily in a temperate climate. In fact, they grown wild in California. But for some reason they have never … Read More
Frittata di salsiccia, patate e funghi (Sausage, Potato and Mushroom Frittata)
The Italian flat omelette known as the frittata, like pasta, is endlessly adaptable. The eggs provide a vehicle for just about any combination of meat, fish or vegetable your heart desires. So once you master the basic technique, a whole world of culinary possibilities opens up for you. One of … Read More
Gramigna con salsiccia
Gramigna is a delightful curlicue shaped pasta from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. The word means Bermuda grass in Italian and I suppose the pasta does rather resemble it, if you make liberal use of your imagination. There are various ways to dress gramigna, but surely the best known is … Read More
Chicken Francese
October is Italian-American Heritage month, and long time readers will know that each year, around this time, we feature an Italian-American dish. This year, we’re serving up Chicken Francese, a perennial favorite you’ll find on the menu of just about every Italian-American restaurant in the country. Despite its fame, the … Read More