I first read about this simple recipe for Pork Loin Braised in Milk in Marcella Hazan‘s first cookbook The Classic Italian Cook Book: The Art of Italian Cooking and the Italian Art of Eating (1973), but you can find this well-known dish in many recipe books, including the venerable Artusi and … Read More
Lesso di manzo rifatto (“Re-made” Boiled Beef)
Waste not, want not, they old saying goes. There are a myriad of old recipes in the Italian repertoire for making use of boiled beef leftover from beef broth, a brodo classico or a bollito misto. Of course, boiled beef can simply be gently reheated in its broth and served … Read More
Gratinéed Ox Tongue in Mushroom Cream Sauce
As mentioned recently, veal tongue is a common part of a bollito misto, but tongue is also a wonderful dish all on its own. Although classified as an organ meat, tongue doesn’t taste ‘organ-y’ at all. Rather it tastes like a richest, most unctuous cut of beef you have ever … Read More
Frittata ai peperoni (Bell Pepper Frittata)
A frittata is a great solution to those nights when you want something savory but don’t have much time (or desire) to make anything elaborate. The basic technique for making a frittata has appeared on this blog before, but a particularly tasty frittata is one made with peppers and onions–a … Read More
Fricassée de poulet à l’ancienne (Julia Child’s Old-Fashioned Chicken Fricassee)
I grew up on Julia Child. Other than nonna Angelina herself, no one inspired my love affair with cooking more. While other kids were eating milk and cookies and watching cartoons, I ran home to make rice and cheese and sit down to the latest instalment of The French Chef. … Read More
Seppie coi piselli alla romana (Roman-Style Braised Squid and Peas)
Strange as it may seem, squid and peas were made for each other. The sweetness of peas sets off the brinyness of squid perfectly. And the savoriness of a tomato sauce brings it all together nicely. This dish, as so many traditional Roman dishes, is really quite easy to make but … Read More
Costolette d’agnello «a scottadito» (Roman-Style Lamb Chops)
There is surely no meat more typical of the Mediterranean basin than lamb. Sheep husbandry began in pre-historic times and is thought to have gotten its start in Mesopotamia, quickly spreading to Asia Minor and southern Europe—it played a major role in the ancient civilizations of the Mediterranean, including the … Read More
Coda alla vaccinara (Roman-Style Braised Oxtails)
This is comfort food at its most comforting, one of the many humble but delicious dishes that typify popular cooking in the Eternal City: Roman-style braised oxtails. The Italian word vaccinara actually means “butcher style”. The tail is one of those cuts of meat that are known in Italian as … Read More