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Cialledda (Bread and Tomato Salad)

In antipasti, Puglia by Frank12 Comments

One of things I find fascinating about Italian cookery—cookery in generally, really—is how you can take a culinary idea and, with a few subtle changes …

FrankCialledda (Bread and Tomato Salad)
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Sorbetto di limone (Lemon Sorbet)

In dessert, summer by Frank23 Comments

Along with gelato, sorbetto is *the* classic Italian frozen dessert. And perhaps the most basic. Sorbetto di limone is essentially frozen lemonade: Simple syrup is made …

FrankSorbetto di limone (Lemon Sorbet)
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Frittata con asparagi e pancetta (Asparagus and Pancetta Frittata)

In secondi piatti by Frank26 Comments

Eggs complement asparagus so well—think of asparagi alla milanese, topped with a fried egg— and they complement cured pork too—bacon and eggs, anyone? And then …

FrankFrittata con asparagi e pancetta (Asparagus and Pancetta Frittata)
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Olive ascolane (Ascoli Style Stuffed Olives)

In antipasti, Marche, snack by Frank31 Comments

Olive ascolane—with their soft and savory meat stuffing surrounded by a crisp, breaded crust—are a speciality of Ascoli Piceno in the region of Le Marche, …

FrankOlive ascolane (Ascoli Style Stuffed Olives)
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Cipolline novelle con piselli (Spring Onions and Peas)

In contorno by Frank23 Comments

This recipe shows how switching things around a bit in a recipe can result in a whole new dish. While many recipes for peas call for a bit of …

FrankCipolline novelle con piselli (Spring Onions and Peas)
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Ragù d’agnello e peperoni (Lamb and Red Pepper Ragù)

In Abruzzo, pasta, primi piatti by Frank23 Comments

One of my regrets from my years in Italy is that I didn’t get over the Abruzzo more often. Just opposite from Lazio on the …

FrankRagù d’agnello e peperoni (Lamb and Red Pepper Ragù)
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Fragole all’aceto balsamico (Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar)

In dessert, Emilia-Romagna by Frank26 Comments

As I’ve written about before, dessert in our house tends to be nothing but a piece of fruit. But once in a while, I like …

FrankFragole all’aceto balsamico (Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar)
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Asparagi all’agro (Asparagus with Lemon and Olive Oil)

In antipasti, contorno by Frank18 Comments

Asparagus with Lemon and Olive oil, or asparagi all’agro, is one of those dishes that is so quick and simple you might argue it hardly …

FrankAsparagi all’agro (Asparagus with Lemon and Olive Oil)
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Agnello e piselli (Lamb and Peas)

In Campania, Puglia, secondi piatti by Frank16 Comments

I love second courses that combine meat and vegetable in a single dish. Not only is the combination invariably delicious, but it saves the cook …

FrankAgnello e piselli (Lamb and Peas)
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Ravioli nudi (Spinach and Ricotta Dumplings)

In gnocchi, Lombardia, primi piatti, Toscana by Frank30 Comments

Ravioli nudi, or “nude ravioli”, also known as gnudi, malfatti, gnocchi verdi, or the more literal gnocchi di ricotta e spinaci—are dumplings made with the usual …

FrankRavioli nudi (Spinach and Ricotta Dumplings)
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Alici indorate e fritte (Fried Fresh Anchovies)

In Campania, secondi piatti by Frank15 Comments

When they think of anchovies, most people, at least here in the US, think of salt-cured anchovy fillets packed in oil. If you’re a bit more …

FrankAlici indorate e fritte (Fried Fresh Anchovies)
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Vellutata di cavolfiore (Cream of Cauliflower Soup)

In primi piatti, Soups by Frank26 Comments

Here’s a dish that’s perfect for a spur of the moment meal, but is so beautiful and refined it could also serve as the starter for an …

FrankVellutata di cavolfiore (Cream of Cauliflower Soup)
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Uova alla fiorentina, Bugialli’s Original Eggs Florentine

In secondi piatti, Toscana by Frank20 Comments

Delicious as it may be, the dish known in most of the world as Eggs Florentine —eggs sitting on a bed of spinach braised in …

FrankUova alla fiorentina, Bugialli’s Original Eggs Florentine
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Baccalà lesso (Boiled Salt Cod)

In Campania, secondi piatti by Frank18 Comments

Lent—la Quaresima in Italian—is the roughly six week period on the Catholic calendar between Ash Wednesday and Easter. Traditionally a period of self-sacrifice and fasting, in the …

FrankBaccalà lesso (Boiled Salt Cod)
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Cicoria e fagioli (Chicory and Beans)

In Campania, contorno, piatti unici, primi piatti, Soups by Frank39 Comments

Chicory and Beans is one of those lean dishes that Angelina practically lived on weekdays. Like many good southern Italians, she was what we might call …

FrankCicoria e fagioli (Chicory and Beans)
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Jeanne Caròla Francesconi: La Cucina Napoletana

In Campania, reference by Frank29 Comments

As I’ve written many times, Jeanne Caròla Francesconi (b. 1903, d. 1995) is my muse for Neapolitan cookery—apart from my grandmother Angelina, of course. And I’m …

FrankJeanne Caròla Francesconi: La Cucina Napoletana
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Impepata di cozze (Peppered Mussels)

In antipasti, Campania, secondi piatti by Frank20 Comments

Here’s a recipe that’s so simple you could call it a non-recipe: impepata di cozze, or Peppered Mussels. To make this  Neapolitan classic, you simply steam mussels …

FrankImpepata di cozze (Peppered Mussels)
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Cacio e pepe, a Roman classic

In Lazio, pasta, primi piatti by Frank40 Comments

When you’re in a real hurry or just too tired to cook anything too elaborate, here’s a great solution: cacio e pepe, literally ‘cheese and …

FrankCacio e pepe, a Roman classic