Sartù di riso (Neapolitan Rice Timbale)

Sartù di riso (Neapolitan Rice Timbale)

In Campania, piatti unici, primi piatti, Risotto and Other Rice Dishes by Frank34 Comments

When we think of Neapolitan cooking—and southern Italian cooking in general—we think of pasta and pizza. So it may come as a surprise that one of the most emblematic dishes of Neapolitan cooking is actually a rice timbale, the sartù di riso. The word sartù, the story goes, is an Italianized version of the French phrase sur tout, which means ‘above all’—a reference to the rice that covers the rich meat and vegetable filling of this extraordinary timbale.

And therein lies a tale. You see, back in the day Naples was the capital of southern Italy—a separate country known as the ‘Kingdom of the Two Sicilies‘ and ruled by French Bourbons. The Bourbon nobility liked to live and eat high on the hog, and their local cooks, known as the Monzù—another Italianization, this time of the word Monsieur—went out of their way to please their noble masters with elaborate French-inspired dishes using local ingredients; their vast repertoire makes up a whole sub-cuisine, la cucina dei Monzù. It was perhaps the first example of a consciously contrived fusion cuisine. And it explains, at least in part, why Neapolitan cuisine is so rich in pasticci and timbali and other fancy  dishes.

The sartù is arguably the best known of the traditional Monzù dishes. There are several kinds of sartù, but they mainly fall within two categories: those in rosso (‘red’, ie made with tomato sauce) and those in bianco (‘white’, without). The white version is the original, or so they say, but it is the red version that is the more popular today. Today’s post is about the version called sartù di riso al ragù.  The rice is flavored with a rich ragù della domenica or Sunday Sauce; the stuffing is made with the sausages that went into the ragù and polpettine, those same tiny meatballs that go into lasagna, mixed with peas and mushrooms—the French touch! It’s a kind of fancy, Frenchified lasagna di Carnevale

Like lasagna, the sartù is not an everyday dish—it involves several steps and take some considerable time and effort. Best to plan ahead. You can make the ragù,  for example, the day before, the polpettine and rice the morning of, and then put everything together when you feel like it. In fact, the whole thing can be assembled ahead of time, then refrigerated until you want to cook it.

Ingredients  

Makes enough for 4-6 people

For the ragú:

  • One large onion, finely chopped
  • 1-2 cloves of garlic
  • 3-4 large sausages (mild ‘Italian’ type)
  • Olive oil (or, better, lard)
  • Salt and pepper
  • Red wine
  • 2 large cans of tomatoes (800g/28 oz.) passed through a food mill, or the equivalent of crushed or puréed tomatoes
  • A sprig or two of fresh parsley

For the rice:

  • 500g (1 lb.) of rice for risotto (see Notes)
  • A ladleful (or two) of the ragù above, mixed with enough additional water to make one liter/one quart of liquid
  • Salt
  • 3 eggs
  • 100g (3-1/2 oz.) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • A few sprigs of fresh parsley, finely chopped

For the polpettine (little meatballs):

  • 250g (1/2 lb.) of chopped beef, pork and/or veal (see Notes)
  • 50g (1-1/4 oz.) of freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • 100g (3-1/2 oz.) of breadcrumbs or day-old bread, trimmed and soaked (see Notes)
  • A few sprigs of fresh parsley, finely chopped
  • Olive oil for frying (or another vegetable oil)

For the rest of the stuffing:

  • One ball of fiordilatte, mozzarella cheese made with cow’s milk (see Notes), sliced or cubed
  • 25g (1 oz.) of dried mushrooms (preferably porcini) soaked in water until soft 
  • 200 g (7 oz.) of frozen peas (or a small can)

For the mold:

  • Butter or lard
  • Breadcrumbs

Directions

Step 1: Start by making the ragù, using the ingredients listed above and following the method for Angelina’s Sunday Sauce.

Step 2: Precook the rice: Mix the ragù and water together, season generously with salt. (Taste the liquid to make sure it is quite savory.) Put the rice and the liquid together in a saucepan, bring to a boil. Stir once, then lower the heat to a gentle simmer, cover and let cook for 15 minutes, stirring only once about halfway through. The liquid should be fully absorbed and the rice should still be slightly underdone, rather chalky to the tooth.

Sartu (cooked rice)

Then transfer the rice to a large mixing bowl and let it cool entirely, then add the remaining eggs, cheese and parsley. Taste and adjust for seasoning—the rice should be very flavorful.

(NB: While the rice is simmering, you can let your dried mushrooms soak.)

Step 3: Make the polpettine: Mix all of the ingredients listed above together in a large bowl. Form them into the smallest meatballs you can manage, about the size of hazelnut, rolling them between your palms. Fry your little meatballs in abundant olive oil until they are nicely browned on all sides. Make sure that you leave lots of room in the pan for them to fry properly; you will probably need to fry them in batches. NB: Since they’re so small, they will cook in only a few minutes. Drain them on paper towels.

Step 4: Set up  your mis en place: Fish out a few of the sausages from the ragù and slice them up. Slice the mozzarella and get your peas. You should now have everything ready to go: your rice, your soaked mushrooms, the little meatballs, the frozen peas, your sliced mozzarella. Lay them out on your work space so you’re ready to put everything together.

Sartu (mis en place)

All ready to go: slices sausages, tiny meatballs, pre-cooked rice, peas, soaked mushrooms and slice mozzarella.

Step 5: Prepare the stuffing: Mix together the sausages, meatballs, peas and mushrooms. Nap them with a ladleful of ragù and mix so they are well coated. Taste and adjust for seasoning; the stuffing should be rich and savory.

Step 6: Assemble the sartù: Line a mold of your choice very generously with butter (or, if you really want to be authentic, lard) then breadcrumbs. (I like to use a Charlotte mold, but there are other possibilities; see Notes below.) Make sure to line the mold very well. This step is really important to avoid the rice sticking to your mold. And that would be a real shame after all the effort you’re putting in…

Sartu (breaded mold)

A well-lined mold is the key to a successful sartù

Take two thirds of the rice mixture and line the bottom and sides, leaving a large well in the middle for the stuffing. Make sure the rice makes a rather thick ‘wall’ around the sides, enough to hold up the finished timbale. Add the stuffing into the well, starting with a layer of mozzarella, then the stuffing ingredients, proceeding in layers until you’re almost (but not quite) up to the top of the mold, like so:

Sartu (stuffing)

Then add the rest of the  rice and flatten it out so it is flush with the top of the mold. Sprinkle with some more breadcrumbs and dot with some more butter (or lard).

Sartu (oven ready)

Ready for the oven

Step 7: Bake the sartù in a moderate oven (180C/350F) for a good 30-45 minutes, depending on the shape and size of the mold, until the top is golden brown. (If using a ring mold or individual molds, it will be done in more like 20-30 minutes.)

Step 8: Rest: Remove the sartù from the oven and let it rest for a good 10-15 minutes. (It can wait up to 30 minutes if you like and some recipes tell you to do so. The longer the wait, the more solid the sartù will be.) Again, this step is critical to keep the sartù in shape.

Step 9: Unmold the sartù by placing a large plate over the top of the mold, then, using oven mitts or towels so you don’t burn yourself, holding and flipping both mold and plate over together. Then, with the mold upside down on the plate, give the bottom (now the ‘top’) of the mold a good wack with a heavy knife or mallet or something to loosen it from the mold. Gently lift the mold up, just a smidgen, shaking it a bit until you feel the sartù come loose from the mold and drop onto the plate.

Sartu (whole)

Step 10: Serve the sartù whole, cutting it at table like a cake for your dinner guests, along with a sauce boat of the remaining ragù and some freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese for those who want some.

Sartu (slice)

A nice slice of sartù, with ragù and grated cheese. Yum!

Notes

The best rice for this dish is one of the varieties that are suited for making risotto: arborio, Vialone nano or Carnaroli. Given the amounts needed, I usually use the (relatively!) inexpensive arborio for making a sartù. In a pinch, any short grained rice will do; you need a ‘starchy’ variety that will hold together when the sartù is unmolded. If you want to use  easier to find long grain rice, it may work if you add some extra egg for binding. (No guarantees, however, as I haven’t tested this out!)

The chopped meat can be beef, or a mixture of beef and pork, or a mixture of beef, pork and veal, or you prefer. Just make sure it’s not too lean, or else your meatballs will be a bit dry.

The mozzarella should be fresh, if possible, the kind you buy in its water. But you needn’t go to the expense of using a true mozzarella di bufala, made from the milk of the water buffalo, for a dish like this, where the mozzarella gets mixed up with all sort of savory ingredients. A simple and much less expensive fiordilatte, or mozzarella made with cow’s milk (which, in any event, is what you will more likely find here in the States) will do fine. And, in a pinch, you can even use the ‘dry’ kind of mozzarella that comes wrapped in plastic wrap. If so, I would cube the mozzarella rather than slice it, as it tends to be a bit tough. If using fresh mozzarella, let it drain well before using so it doesn’t turn the stuffing soggy.

Depending on the size of your mold, you may well wind up with extra rice, ragù or stuffing, but that’s fine. Better too much than too little, so the measurements given above are generous. Leftover ragù has a million uses; it can be frozen and used for lasagna on some future Sunday, or just on some spaghetti anytime you feel like it.  Leftover stuffing is wonderful reheated on its own, perhaps with a bit of leftover ragù if you have it, or tomato if you don’t, as a kind of stew, or as a condimento for pasta. Either the stuffing and/or the rice can be used to make a nice frittata as well. If you have all three leftover, you can make mini sartù, or sartuncini, for another meal.

Speaking of molds, I like to use a medium-sized Charlotte mold for making sartù, as pictured above. It makes for an impressive, ‘dramatic’ presentation at table, especially as you slice it and the rich stuffing comes pouring out… But many people these days use a ring mold, which is quicker to cook and easier to slice. You can even use very small molds for elegant individual portions. The only point is to make sure you line your mold very well with butter and breadcrumbs and then let the sartù rest before you attempt to unmold it; otherwise, you risk the sartù sticking to the mold, which won’t be very pretty (but still delicious). To get around this, some cooks make sartù as a kind of casserole, to be spooned out of a baking dish rather than unmolded, which is undoubtedly less nerve-racking but a lot less fun.

As mentioned, there are several types of sartù. In her classic cookbook La cucina napoletana, Jeanne Caròla Francesconi presents fives different versions, two in bianco, two in rosso and one made with fish rather than meat. the sartù di riso in bianco is said to be the original version. There is also another version in rosso, made with a simple tomato sauce rather than ragù, which makes the dish (slightly) less time-consuming to make and, of course, a bit lighter. It’s probably more in line with today’s tastes, but personally I like this ragù version the best of all. Francesconi, by the way, suggests letting the stuffing ingredients (other than the mozzarella) gently sauté in a soffritto of lard, onion and prosciutto, then adding some ragù  and simmering for about 10 minutes. This extra step no doubt adds another layer of flavor.

Francesconi calls for an even more elaborate stuffing, adding chicken livers and, like some lasagna, wedges of hard boiled eggs, to the ingredients listed in this recipe. In fact, as you can well imagine, the recipe lends itself to all sorts of variations, especially in the stuffing. You can add more or less meatballs or stuffing or peas or mushrooms as suits your taste. I’ve seen recipes for cooked ham in the stuffing. And so on ad infinitum. Some people like to add some peas and/or mushrooms to the rice as well. Sartù is a dish that lets you play and individualize according to your taste. But—mi raccommando!—do try the classic version first.

Sartù di riso (Neapolitan Rice Timbale)

Rating: 51

Total Time: 2 hours, 30 minutes

Yield: Serves 4-6

Ingredients

    For the ragú:
  • One large onion, finely chopped
  • 1-2 cloves of garlic
  • 3-4 large sausages (mild 'Italian' type)
  • Olive oil (or, better, lard)
  • Salt and pepper
  • Red wine
  • 2 large cans of tomatoes (800g/28 oz.) passed through a food mill, or the equivalent of crushed or puréed tomatoes
  • A sprig or two of fresh parsley
  • For the rice:
  • 500g (1 lb.) of rice for risotto (see Notes)
  • A ladleful (or two) of the ragù above, mixed with enough additional water to make one liter/one quart of liquid
  • Salt
  • 3 eggs
  • 100g (3-1/2 oz.) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • A few sprigs of fresh parsley, finely chopped
  • For the polpettine (little meatballs):
  • 250g (1/2 lb.) of chopped beef, pork and/or veal (see Notes)
  • 50g (1-1/4 oz.) of freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • 100g (3-1/2 oz.) of breadcrumbs or day-old bread, trimmed and soaked (see Notes)
  • A few sprigs of fresh parsley, finely chopped
  • Olive oil for frying (or another vegetable oil)
  • For the rest of the stuffing:
  • One ball of fiordilatte, mozzarella cheese made with cow's milk (see Notes), sliced or cubed
  • 25g (1 oz.) of dried mushrooms (preferably porcini) soaked in water until soft
  • 200 g (7 oz.) of frozen peas (or a small can)
  • For the mold:
  • Butter or lard
  • Breadcrumbs

Directions

  1. Start by making the ragù, using the ingredients listed above and following the method for Angelina's Sunday Sauce.
  2. Precook the rice: Mix the ragù and water together, season generously with salt. (Taste the liquid to make sure it is quite savory.) Put the rice and the liquid together in a saucepan, bring to a boil. Stir once, then lower the heat to a gentle simmer, cover and let cook for 15 minutes, stirring only once about halfway through. The liquid should be fully absorbed and the rice should still be slightly underdone, rather chalky to the tooth.
  3. Then transfer the rice to a large mixing bowl and let it cool entirely, then add the remaining eggs, cheese and parsley. Taste and adjust for seasoning—the rice should be very flavorful. (NB: While the rice is simmering, you can let your dried mushrooms soak.)
  4. Make the polpettine: Mix all of the ingredients listed above together in a large bowl. Form them into the smallest meatballs you can manage, about the size of hazelnut, rolling them between your palms. Fry your little meatballs in abundant olive oil until they are nicely browned on all sides. Make sure that you leave lots of room in the pan for them to fry properly; you will probably need to fry them in batches. NB: Since they're so small, they will cook in only a few minutes. Drain them on paper towels.
  5. Set up your mis en place: Fish out a few of the sausages from the ragù and slice them up. Slice the mozzarella and get your peas. You should now have everything ready to go: your rice, your soaked mushrooms, the little meatballs, the frozen peas, your sliced mozzarella. Lay them out on your work space so you're ready to put everything together.
  6. Prepare the stuffing: Mix together the sausages, meatballs, peas and mushrooms. Nap them with a ladleful of ragù and mix so they are well coated. Taste and adjust for seasoning; the stuffing should be rich and savory.
  7. Assemble the sartù: Line a mold of your choice very generously with butter (or, if you really want to be authentic, lard) then breadcrumbs. (I like to use a Charlotte mold, but there are other possibilities; see Notes below.) Make sure to line the mold very well. This step is really important to avoid the rice sticking to your mold. And that would be a real shame after all the effort you're putting in...
  8. Take two thirds of the rice mixture and line the bottom and sides, leaving a large well in the middle for the stuffing. Make sure the rice makes a rather thick 'wall' around the sides, enough to hold up the finished timbale. Add the stuffing into the well, starting with a layer of mozzarella, then the stuffing ingredients, proceeding in layers until you're almost (but not quite) up to the top of the mold, like so:
  9. Then add the rest of the rice and flatten it out so it is flush with the top of the mold. Sprinkle with some more breadcrumbs and dot with some more butter (or lard).
  10. Bake the sartù in a moderate oven (180C/350F) for a good 30-45 minutes, depending on the shape and size of the mold, until the top is golden brown. (If using a ring mold or individual molds, it will be done in more like 20-30 minutes.)
  11. Remove the sartù from the oven and let it rest for a good 10-15 minutes. (It can wait up to 30 minutes if you like and some recipes tell you to do so. The longer the wait, the more solid the sartù will be.) Again, this step is critical to keep the sartù in shape.
  12. Unmold the sartù by placing a large plate over the top of the mold, then, using oven mitts or towels so you don't burn yourself, holding and flipping both mold and plate over together. Then, with the mold upside down on the plate, give the bottom (now the 'top') of the mold a good wack with a heavy knife or mallet or something to loosen it from the mold. Gently lift the mold up, just a smidgen, shaking it a bit until you feel the sartù come loose from the mold and drop onto the plate.
  13. Serve the sartù whole, cutting it at table like a cake for your dinner guests, along with a sauce boat of the remaining ragù and some freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese for those who want some.

The recipe for Sunday Sauce can be found at: http://memoriediangelina.com/2009/10/12/il-ragu-della-domenica-sunday-sauce/

http://memoriediangelina.com/2013/01/21/sartu-di-riso-neapolitan-rice-timbale/
FrankSartù di riso (Neapolitan Rice Timbale)

Comments

  1. Pingback: Columbus Day Special: Spaghetti and Meatballs | Memorie di Angelina

  2. Williemae

    I all the time emailed this blog post page to all my friends, for the reason that if like to read it next my contacts will too.

  3. Scordo.com

    Wonderful post, Frank. We’ve made this dish on several times and, as you suggested, take the “multiple step/days” approach.

    Vince

  4. Nuts about food

    Wow Frank, you just taught me about a whole new cuisine I knew nothing about. Had never heard of sartùs and monzùs although I of course knew about the French influence on the Neapolitan cuisine. This looks like a glorious. more sophisticated version of an arancino di riso (possibly the forerunner?), which makes sense given Sicily was a part of the Regno delle Due Sicilie. Some further research may be needed…

    1. Frank Fariello

      Interesting comparison! If you see below, a reader from Sicily writes that they have this dish in Sicily, too. And I have read that at least some of the Monzù were Sicilian since, as you say, they too were part of the same Kingdom.

      1. Nuts about food

        I just read it. Interesting, I had never heard of it and my Sicilian mother-in-law has never made it. I will ask her about it, perhaps it is not common in their part of the island? That is what I love about food, you just never stop learning. Anyhow, in whatever form the combination of rice, peas, tomato sauce and ground meat is heavenly. Don’t you think?

  5. Notes From Nonna's

    I always appreciate reading your posts. They are not just a recipe, but a true story about the dish with lots of detail and history. I wondered about your use of Parmigianno cheese in all the separate components. My Grandmother usually used pecorino in everything and only my northern Nonna used Parmigianno. Thanks again for sharing all your wonderful knowledge.

    1. Frank Fariello

      Thanks!

      We usually do think of pecorino as the usual grating cheese in the South, and Parmigiano in the north, and that’s basically true. But you might be surprised at the number of dishes, at least in Neapolitan cooking, that call for Parmesan cheese. That’s particularly true of the sub-category we are talking about here. I suspect that pecorino would have been too sharply rustic for those noble Bourbons’ palates…

  6. passalamoda

    Ottimo lavoro, riuscire a rendere possibili ricette così elaborate, indicando gli ingredienti più adatti per ottenere un buon risultato lontano dall’Italia. Anche in Sicilia si faceva e si fa questo piatto e spesso lo chiamiamo Sartò, ci sono piccole differenze e variazioni, ma la più significativa sta nella composizione. Si riveste lo stampo con il riso in uno spessore minore, e poi si dispone il ripieno alternandolo con strati di riso sempre condito. Si riduce un po’ l’effetto scatola a sorpresa, ma il riso si sposa meglio con il ripieno.
    http://www.cibidicasa.com/2012/08/sarto-di-riso.html
    Ciao peppe

    1. Frank Fariello

      Tante grazie, Peppe! Mi sembra interessante questa variazione. Ci devo provare la prossima volta che faccio un ‘sartò’.

      NB: For those who don’t understand Italian, this reader from Sicily says that they make this dish in Sicily as well, where they call it sartò. It has various minor differences but the most important is that the sides are a bit thinner but rather than having one large cavity for the stuffing, you alternate layers of rice and stuffing.

      1. passalamoda

        In effetti come dice Nuts about Food la versione siciliana assomiglia agli arancini. Ma la differenza principale sta nel fatto che il riso per gli arancini non è condito con un sugo ma solo con burro parmigiano e uova. Mentre il ripieno è simile a quello per il sartù. Tradizionalmente esistono due tipi di arancini: con sugo e in bianco, solo formaggio e pisellini.
        Grazie per la gentilezza della traduzione, dovrò decidermi a svecchiare il mio inglese. Un abbraccio peppe

  7. tastytrix

    This is beyond cool. I HAVE to do this … I think next year instead of a holiday cassoulet extravaganza I will have to throw a swanky sartu soiree – using this as my roadmap.

  8. Karen

    This is a wonderful dish to serve for a special occasion. Your post was so interesting and informative…just great.

  9. Chiara

    Caro Frank, tu non sei solo un raffinato gourmet ma anche uno storico della cucina ! Leggere i tuoi post è sempre un arricchimento culturale, peccato che tu viva un pò lontano, mi sarei già autoinvitata a cena ! Buona settimana, un abbraccio !

  10. Domenica Marchetti

    This is spectacular, Frank. And informative, too. I knew something of the monzu’ but this really whets my appetite to learn more about them and the dishes they created. Don’t you love these old elaborate recipes? I think they are so worth knowing about ~ and making every now and again ~ especially in this day of 30-minute everything.

    1. Frank Fariello

      Thanks, Domenica! I love old elaborate recipes with lots of history behind them. And lots of work—but it pays off in marvelous flavor and presentation. Anyway, personally I can’t think of a more pleasant way to spend a weekend morning or afternoon than puttering around the kitchen.

  11. Ciao chow Linda

    Wow Frank, that’s a beauty. Lots of steps, yes, but what a showstopper. I have one of those charlotte molds and you know I have the same dinnerware pattern. This is meant for me. Thanks for all the historical info too. By the way, in my bagna cauda photo , I have the feeling the restaurant added cream.

    1. Frank Fariello

      Thanks, Linda! Yep, it’s well worth the effort, I’d say, for a special occasion. I really have to make bagna cauda again soon—I want to see how it tastes with cream this time. Haven’t had it that way yet…

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