This iconic pork and cabbage stew from Milan called cassoeula is as much a symbol of the city in its own rustic way as the more refined risotto alla milanese or a cotoletta. Cassoeula belongs to the same category of pork dishes as minestra del morti or the Soup of … Read More
Brutti ma buoni
Brutti ma buoni, meaning “ugly but good”, is the jocular name Italians give to these nut and meringue cookies originally from north-central Italy (their precise origin is disputed) but now popular all over the country. The recipe is simple enough, though you need to take some care so they come … Read More
Negroni sbagliato
It might have been a mistake, but I happen to like a Negroni sbagliato, or “mistaken Nigroni”, even better than the original cocktail. In this “mistaken” version, Prosecco stands in for the gin that gives a classic Negroni its sharp kick. This version is less alcoholic and, to my mind, … Read More
Riso alla pilota (Pilot’s Rice)
A rustic rice dish from Mantova in the cucina povera tradition, riso alla pilota is named after the piloti or laborers who operating the pila, the mill where rice would be hulled and polished back in the day. (There are still some old pile you can visit today, like this one.) The Po … Read More
Brasato ai funghi (Italian Pot Roast with Mushrooms)
While I’m not a vegetarian, meat doesn’t play a very central role in my diet. Usually at least. There’s something about the late autumn and winter that brings out the inner carnivore. When the colder weather sets in, there’s nothing better than a good pot roast. We’ve featured brasato, the northern … Read More
Risotto allo champagne (Champagne Risotto)
Risotto allo champagne, or Champagne Risotto, is a simple but elegant first course. It is very much follows the basic recipe for a risotto in bianco but gets its particular charm from the use of Champagne instead of wine. You might think it extravagant to cook with Champagne, but you only use a … Read More
Riso in cagnone (Rice with Butter and Cheese)
I was an atypical child. The other kids would come home from school and happily eat their milk and cookies, but I hated milk and didn’t care much for sweets. My idea of an after-school snack was a bowl of rice mixed with lots of butter and cheese. I would make … Read More
Minestra dei morti (Soup of the Dead)
Modern Milan, political capital of Lombardy and financial capital of Italy, conjures up images of sharply dressed business people, trendy fashion shows and elegant shops. Lombardy is one of the riches areas of Italy and, indeed, the world. So it may come as a surprise that the region’s traditional cuisine is actually fairly rustic, with … Read More