Cassoeula (Milanese Pork and Cabbage Stew)

FrankFall, Lombardia, piatti unici, secondi piatti, Winter37 Comments

Cassoeula (Milanese Pork and Cabbage Stew)

This iconic pork and cabbage stew from Milan called cassoeula is as much a symbol of the city in its own rustic way as the more refined risotto alla milanese or a cotoletta.

Cassoeula belongs to the same category of pork dishes as minestra del morti or the Soup of the Dead traditionally prepared during the pig slaughtering season in the late autumn and early winter. Back in the days before refrigeration, common folk would prepare these dishes to quickly use up the most perishable parts of the pig right after it was butchered.

Served throughout the season, cassoeula typically appears as a hearty Sunday dinner. But it has particular associations with two Catholic feasts, the feast of Saint Martin on November 11, which marks the beginning of the season, and the feast of Saint Anthony the Abbot on January 17, which ends it.

Cassoeula actually includes a mix of ‘normal’ cuts like the ribs and sausages, plus those perishable odds and ends like the rind, trotter, tail, ear and snout. You braise these with aromatic vegetables and Savoy cabbage, and sometimes a bit of tomato for color, until it’s all falling apart tender. Quite literally snout to tail eating.

Now if you’re squeamish about eating these specialty parts of the pig, no worries. You can make a ‘lite’ version of cassoeula using just the ribs and sausage. The lite version won’t have quite the same taste and texture as a true cassoeula, but it will be tasty all the same.

Cassouela is usually served with freshly made steaming polenta, making for a real stick-to-the-ribs one dish meal. All you need to round things off is a piece of fruit and perhaps a chunk of cheese.

Ingredients

Serves 4-8, depending on appetite and whether you serve it with polenta

  • 500g (1 lb) pork ribs, cut into individual ribs
  • 250g (1/2 lb) mild Italian style sausage, of the ‘verzini‘ type if you can find it (see Notes)

Plus, if you dare, one of more of the following specialty parts:

  • 100g (3-1/2 oz) pork rind
  • 1 pork trotter, cut into half or pieces
  • 1 pork tail
  • 1 pork ear
  • 1 pork snout

To cook the pork:

  • 1 small onion, minced
  • 1 small carrot, minced
  • 1 stalk of celery, minced
  • a splash of red or white wine
  • 1 head of Savoy cabbage, trimmed of its core and roughly chopped
  • Water or broth, preferably homemade, q.b.
  • 2-3 Tbs tomato concentrate (or 1 cup of passata) (optional)
  • Olive oil
  • Salt and pepper

Directions

Prepping the specialty pork parts

If you are using the optional pork parts, simmer them in a large pot of well salted water for an hour.

With a skimmer, remove the pork parts and set on a baking rack to drain. Let cool.

Cut the rind and ears into bite-sized squares. Remove the meat from the bones of the trotter. Cut the tail into short lengths. Set everything aside until needed.

Prepping the cabbage

Remove the tough outermost leaves from the Savoy cabbage. Cut the cabbage into quarters vertically, then trim off the tough core from the base of each quarter. Cut each into thick slices, then across into bite sized pieces.

Rinse the cut up cabbage in a large bowl of water. Then transfer the cabbage, still dripping wet, to a braiser or sauté pan.

Simmer, covered, over moderate heat until the cabbage has wilted and reduced by about half. Stir from time to time to prevent scorching.

When the cabbage is done, transfer to a bowl until needed.

Prepping the ribs and sausages

Shortly before you’re ready to assemble and simmer your cassoeula, sauté the pork ribs and sausages in olive oil in a wide skillet until golden brown on all sides. (Keep them well spaced, proceeding in batches if necessary.) Set aside until needed.

Assembling and simmering the cassouela

In a large braiser or cast iron Dutch oven, sauté the onion, carrot and celery in olive oil until soft and translucent. Add a good dollop of tomato concentrate, mix it with the aromatic vegetables and let it cook for another minute or two.

Now add the ribs, sausages and, if using, other pork parts to the pot and turn them in the aromatic vegetables. Gently simmer everything together for a few minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper. Pour over a drizzle of red wine and let it evaporate.

Now add the Savoy cabbage leaves and give it a turn. Moisten with perhaps 500ml (2 cups) water (or broth). Simmer, stirring from time to time, for an hour and a half, or until everything is perfectly tender and the liquid is well reduced. The cassouela should have the consistency of a thick stew, not a soup.

Cassoeula (Milanese Pork and Cabbage Stew)

If needed add more liquid to the pot to keep things moist. If on the other hand, the stew is still brothy when the meat is tender, turn up the heat and cook off the excess liquid.

Serve hot. It’s even better reheated after an overnight rest.

Cassoeula (Milanese Pork and Cabbage Stew)

Notes

A cassoeula might involve a rather lengthy multi-step process, but it’s not terribly difficult. If you’ve made an Italian style stew before, then you’ll be on familiar ground. The main challenge lies in finding the right ingredients.

Sausages

A classic cassoeula is made with a local type of pork sausage called verzini. These are mild sausages only about 5cm (2-3 inches) long. They are traditionally accompanied by Savoy cabbage, hence the name. (Savoy cabbage is verza in Italian.)

Purists will tell you it’s not a true cassoeula without these little sausages, but verzini are not easily found outside Lombardy. You could make them at home, following this recipe from my cyber friend Manu of Manu’s Menu (sadly no longer active). Otherwise, we need to content ourselves with a simulacrum using another kind of Italian style sausage.

A number of Italian recipes call for luganega, which are easily found many places. I don’t have easy access to luganega where I live, but there’s a local Italian deli that makes rather small (actually standard size by Italian standards) mild sausage that I simply cut in half to roughly mimic the size and shape of verzini. If you’re dealing with those enormous supermarket ‘Italian’ sausages, you’ll need to cut them into several lengths.

Cassoeula (Milanese Pork and Cabbage Stew)
Clockwise from the upper left: snout and tail, rind, ribs, sausages, ear and trotter.
Specialty pork parts

An even bigger challenge in making a traditional cassoeula is finding the specialty cuts. There aren’t many mainstream supermarkets where I live where you can find pork rind and trotters, let alone cuts like the ear and snout. Here, ethnic markets, in particular a nearby Chinese supermarket, came to the rescue. Latin markets, too, are likely to have at least some of these cuts. The good news is that (other than the ears, for some reason) they’re dirt cheap.

Traditionalists will tell you that a real cassoeula will, by definition, include at least some of these specialty parts. After all, the whole purpose of this dish was to make sure no part of the slaughtered pig went to waste. Moreover, these parts contain much fat and collagen, which give the cassoeula its characteristic “sticky” unctuous mouthfeel.

I think you should try the original version at least once. That said, however, there are plenty of contemporary recipes, in Italian and aimed at Italians, for “lite” versions of cassoeula that don’t include them.

Other ingredients

Savoy cabbage is the other main ingredient. It is much loved by northern Italians, more than the green cabbage favored here in the US. Cognoscenti will tell you that the cabbage is at its best after the first frost, which tenderizes the vegetables. But unless you’re buying from a farm market, that advice will be hard to follow. And if you can’t find Savoy cabbage where you live, then green cabbage (cavolo cappuccino in Italian) will do.

Traditionalists also consider tomato a kind of heresy, but many cooks use a little bit, as indicated here, just to lend for color. Do be discrete if you do use it. You don’t want an actual red sauce.

Variations

The exactly mix of cuts varies from place to place and even family to family. So use what you can find. And in Novara, they say, they add duck leg to the mix as well.

The cooking methods can vary as well, at least at the margins. In some recipes, you brown the ribs and/or sausage in the aromatic vegetables in the usual Italian manner, not separately. In others, you add the sausages raw without an initial browning. A few recipes tell you to blanch the specialty cuts only briefly, say 10 minutes, but the vast majority call for a long boil. These cuts are quite fatty and an hour long initial boil removes most of their fat, leaving just enough to enrich you cassoeula without it becoming overwhelmingly greasy.

Many recipes call for braising the meats and cabbage in a fairly minimal amount of water, topping up as needed with just enough to keep things moist.

In some recipes, you add the cabbage directly to the pot without pre-wilting. In others, you add the cabbage to the aromatics first, then the meats go on top. If you cook the cabbage for the full 90 minutes as directed here, it will tend to fall apart. If you like your cabbage to retain its individuality, then hold it back for the first 45 minutes or so. In fact, there are some recipes where you add it only for the last 20 minutes or so.

Making ahead

Like all stews, you can make cassoeula entirely ahead. In fact, as noted above, it is even more delicious when it has a day to rest in the fridge. This also makes degreasing easy if you find the result just too fatty.

You can prep the specialty parts and cabbage ahead and then make the rest at your leisure. As indicated, I prefer to brown the ribs and sausages just before assembling the dish, but you could also prep them as well if you like.

Origins of cassoeula

The most popular story about cassoeula goes that the recipe was brought to Milan by a Spanish soldier during Spanish Hapsburg rule over Milan in the 16th century. He taught his local sweetheart, a cook to a Milanese noble family, to make it. She then made it for her masters and the rest, as they say, is history. There is reason to doubt the story For one thing, this isn’t the kind of fare that was likely to wind up on the tables of the nobility. But I suspect there’s some truth to it, in particular the Spanish connection.

Given the supposed Spanish origins of the dish, it also seems to me like that the name cassoeula is a corruption of the Spanish word cazuela, or casserole, though some people say the word derives from local Milanese dialect words for spoon or casserole.

Cassoeula (Milanese Pork and Cabbage Stew)

Ingredients

  • 500 g 1 lb pork ribs, cut into individual ribs
  • 250 g 1/2 lb mild Italian style sausage, of the ‘verzini’ type if you can find it (see Notes)

Plus, if you dare, one of more of the following specialty parts:

  • 100 g 3-1/2 oz pork rind
  • 1 pork trotter cut in half or into large pieces
  • 1 pork tail
  • 1 pork ear
  • 1 pork snout

To cook the pork:

  • 1 small onion minced
  • 1 small carrot minced
  • 1 stalk of celery minced
  • a splash of red or white wine
  • 1 head of Savoy cabbage trimmed of its core and roughly chopped
  • Water or broth preferably homemade, q.b.
  • 2-3 Tbs tomato concentrate or 1 cup of passata (optional)
  • Olive oil
  • Salt and pepper

Instructions

Prepping the specialty pork parts

  • If you are using the optional pork parts, simmer them in a large pot of well salted water for an hour.
  • With a skimmer , remove the pork parts and set on a baking rack to drain. Let cool.
  • Cut the rind and ear into bite-sized squares. Remove the meat from the bones of the trotter. Cut the tail into short lengths. Set everything aside until needed.

Prepping the cabbage

  • Remove the tough outermost leaves from the Savoy cabbage. Cut the cabbage into quarters vertically, then trim off the tough core from the base of each quarter. Cut each into thick slices, then across into bite sized pieces.
  • Rinse the cut up cabbage in a large bowl of water. Then transfer the cabbage, still dripping wet, to a braiser or sauté pan.
  • Simmer, covered, over moderate heat until the cabbage has wilted and reduced by about half. Stir from time to time to prevent scorching.
  • When the cabbage is done, transfer to a bowl until needed.

Prepping the ribs and sausages

  • Shortly before you’re ready to assemble and simmer your cassoeula, sauté the pork ribs and sausages in olive oil in a wide skillet until golden brown on all sides. (Keep them well spaced, proceeding in batches if necessary.) Set aside until needed.

Assembling and simmering the cassouela

  • In a large braiser or cast iron Dutch oven, sauté the onion, carrot and celery in olive oil until soft and translucent. Add a good dollop of tomato concentrate, mix it with the aromatic vegetables and let it cook for another minute or two.
  • Now add the ribs, sausages and, if using, other pork parts to the pot and turn them in the aromatic vegetables. Gently simmer everything together for a few minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper. Pour over a drizzle of red wine and let it evaporate.
  • Now add the Savoy cabbage leaves and give it a turn. Moisten with perhaps 500ml (2 cups) water (or broth). Simmer, stirring from time to time, for an hour and a half, or until everything is perfectly tender and the liquid is well reduced. The cassouela should have the consistency of a thick stew, not a soup.
  • If needed add more liquid to the pot to keep things moist. If on the other hand, the stew is still brothy when the meat is tender, turn up the heat and cook off the excess liquid.
  • Serve hot. It’s even better reheated after an overnight rest.

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37 Comments on “Cassoeula (Milanese Pork and Cabbage Stew)”

  1. Thanks for sharing. I grew up having cassoeula as winter dish. My grandparents and my father prepared it very often. We make it with a little bit of tomato sauce and usually enjoy it with polenta. Paola

  2. I’m so glad you had a great time in Rome, Frank! How could you not?

    My first thought, when looking at this recipe was, “where am I going to find those pig parts?”, Of course, answer the question for me: my Asian grocer. Both Mark and I decided we had to give this a try sometime over the winter. Thanks for the recipe.

    1. How could I not indeed… Do let me know what you guys think if you try this. Definitely stick to your ribs. And I actually like the texture and mouth feel those parts give to the dish.

      1. It has been many many years since I made it. Growing up outside Milano and with a Milanese mum, this most Lombardy dish was well known to us – she would make it once a year. Even as a kid, I used to love it; the sweetness and the gelatinous quality of the dish I found appealing. Then, I guess due to change in culinary attitudes, my mum stopped it, which was a shame. I have recreated it from Anna del Conte and now I have your guidance – great. To my knowledge, it is a “disappearing dish” even in Lombardy, outside the menus of some trattoria and agriturisimo: I mean, I think, from what I can feel when back in Milano, that even locals cook it home less and less – perhaps it takes too long, perhaps we have become too obsessive about good/bad food. I remember well the sayings that: 1) casoeula needs frosting (as in: the best savoy cabbages appear after the first frostings) and 2) it has to be «La casoeûla l’ha d a vess ben tacchenta e minga sbrodolada e sbrodolenta», in Milanese dialect: it must be rib-sticking and not thin (it sounds wonderful in dialect, sound-wise). Even in uber meaty Tuscany-Lucca, it would be difficult to get verzini, but I will look around.
        Thanks for sharing this, Frank

        1. Thanks, Stefano! I’m sorry to hear that this dish is disappearing even in Lombardy. I guess it’s not really in line with modern tastes but it’s sad all the same. I get that it might not be the healthiest option, but really would once a year make any difference?

  3. What a great recipe to find after a forced absence from the blog world for some eight months! As often before would love to reach into the page with an empty plate in the hand!

  4. 5 stars
    Oh, I love pork and all the ingredients used and anyways have never had a failure with Frank’s recipes!

  5. I’ll admit I’m a sissy when it comes tp eating these specialty parts. It is not a test thing but rather the texture. I would try it but leave the ears, tail and snout to the others at the table. 😀

  6. Pairing it with polenta sounds divine, simple, yet the perfect accompaniment to soak up all those delicious juices. Definitely adding this to my list of must-try stews for the season!

  7. This looks amazing, Frank. And I do dare to get the specialty parts and use them! 😉 This is ideal for this time of year. Such a comforting and hearty meal. ~Valentina
    P.S. I was having trouble leaving a comment, so my apologies if this goes through twice.

    1. Good for you, Valentina! I love a daring cook. 🙂 And sorry you had issues leaving a comment. I’m having some work done “under the hood” that hopefully will help. Do let me know if the problem persists.

  8. I made this this evening. I love everything that’s in it. I used sausage, spareribs, and pork hocks. I found that it didn’t have much of a flavor. Next time I try it, I will brown the meat first before I add it to the vegetables.I will sauté garlic with the veggies. Perhaps that will help.

    1. Thanks for the feedback. Yes, browning the ribs and sausages does make a big difference in flavor. As does adequate seasoning. Underseasoning is one of the main reasons Italian dishes, which generally speaking don’t use strong spices, don’t develop flavor. I don’t think garlic would make much difference, on the other hand.

  9. I’m all in – I’d eat it with all the extras.
    I was just thinking about similarities to Spanish cooking and then you put that bit in the end. I could totally believe most of the story.

    1. There must be at least a kernel of truth to it, I imagine, especially as to the Spanish origins of the dish. I just don’t see this dish appearing on the tables of the nobility in that era, it seems definitely a cucina povera dish.

    1. I bought them in a Chinese supermarket along with the other parts. They were just labeled “ribs”. You can get a glimpse of them in the photo, fairly small but quite meaty. If I had to guess I’d say baby backs, but that’s only a guess. Either baby backs or St Louis/sparerib would work fine here.

  10. Interesting! This dish is new to me, but it sounds like a great winter meal. But I really wonder why pig ears are so expensive? Maybe it’s the competition with the dog chew market? 🙂 Either way, well done on this one, sir!

    1. Thanks! Yes, those piggy parts can be hard to find but worth a try if you have an Asian or Latino market in your area.

  11. Hi Frank! Sorry I’ve been MIA here, but I was in Italy for most of October and still trying to catch up.

    I would adore this dish! Not only is pork my favorite meat, but the cuts you say others may be squeamish about are my favorites (esp the ears!) I understand if people don’t grow up with this how they feel, but I am a big proponent of nose to tail. These animals are giving their lives for us, so we should respect that and use as much as we possibly can.

    Will check out your recent recipes later! Ciao!!

    1. I couldn’t agree more, Christina. Lucky you to have had the chance to spend so much time in the Old Country. I was in Rome in late October but only for a week. Wanted more time!

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