Erbazzone is a savory vegetable pie from Reggio-Emilia in Emilia-Romagna. Greens are sautéed with onion and pancetta and enriched with Parmesan cheese, encased in a crust made from an unleavened dough of flour and water enriched with oil or lard called pasta matta, and then baked. Simple, honest food, made from humble ingredients in … Read More
Pastiera Napoletana
It wouldn’t be a proper Easter dinner in Naples without a pastiera napoletana for dessert, as essential to the Neapolitan Easter as struffoli are to Christmas. This wheatberry and ricotta pie is wonderfully perfumed with orange blossom water, cinnamon and candied fruits, a kind of ne plus ultra version of the … Read More
Frico
Spring is finally here you say? Well, not around these parts. It’s cold and wet, and there’s snow on the ground—comfort food weather. And is there anything more comforting than melted cheese? Today’s recipe, one of two dishes called frico, is something like a potato pancake, only you pile on lots … Read More
Sformatini di fagiolini (Green Bean Timbales)
A traditional sformato is an old fashioned dish. It’s a dish that takes some time and care to make, involving several steps. The kind of thing many people can’t be bothered with these days. But I think it’s well worth the effort. Not quite a quiche, not quite a soufflé, not quite … Read More
Spaghetti alle cipolle rosse e alici (Spaghetti with Red Onions and Anchovies)
What would the world be without onions? Along with their close cousins garlic and shallots, they seem to make their way into just about every savory dish. That’s certainly true of Italian cooking, at least. And yet, except maybe for onion soup, it seems onions are always the proverbial bridesmaid, … Read More
Migliaccio di semolino (Semolina Cake)
Migliaccio, a crustless Neapolitan Semolina Cake, is a traditional sweet dish for Carnevale, may be less well known than the more iconic Neapolitan Carnival treats like those fried dough ribbons called chiacchiere or the lasagna di Carnevale so dear to the hearts of so many Italian-Americans, but it’s well worth discovering. … Read More
Zuppa di orzo (Italian Barley Soup)
Italian cuisine is known for pasta, gnocchi, risotto and polenta. More recently many people have come to know farro. But did you know that Italians also enjoy barley? Here is a simple, basic Italian Barley Soup—zuppa di orzo— that is both healthy, appetizing and, if made in a pressure cooker, quickly … Read More
Rognoncini trifolati (Sautéed Kidneys)
Long time readers will know that I’m a lover of organ meats—the “quinto quarto” as they were affectionately called back in Rome. I love liver and tripe and sweetbreads and brains (although I haven’t had the latter since the Mad Cow outbreak in the 90s)… and, yes, kidneys. If they’re … Read More
Salsa di noci (Ligurian Walnut Sauce)
I would venture to say that, other than producing Christopher Columbus, Liguria is probably best known as the home of pesto genovese, or basil pesto. But the region produces another kind of pesto, known as salsa di noci or Walnut Sauce, that deserves much more attention. The most typical use of salsa … Read More
Cavolini di Bruxelles fritti (Fried Brussels Sprouts)
As the holidays draw to a close, we all want to eat a bit lighter. But with temperatures reaching record lows and snow falling, let’s not make it too light, shall we? Enter Ada Boni, the doyenne of traditional Italian home cooking and author of the iconic Talismano della felicità, … Read More
Risotto allo champagne (Champagne Risotto)
Risotto allo champagne, or Champagne Risotto, is a simple but elegant first course. It is very much follows the basic recipe for a risotto in bianco but gets its particular charm from the use of Champagne instead of wine. You might think it extravagant to cook with Champagne, but you only use a … Read More
Struffoli (Angelina’s Honey Balls)
Struffoli, small balls of dough fried and then covered in honey, is the quintessential Christmas sweet of Naples and its region of Campania. Although I don’t have much of a sweet tooth, it is very dear to my heart; it was one of nonna Angelina’s signature dishes, and it never … Read More
Patate dolci alla griglia (Grilled Sweet Potatoes)
We said goodbye to our outdoor grill back in late October. Covering it for the winter is always a bittersweet affair. But the end of the warm weather doesn’t have to mean the end of grilling. I get good use out of my trusty stovetop grill—a bistecchiera in Italian—throughout the … Read More
Baccalà in guazzetto (Roman Style Salt Cod in Tomato Sauce)
Here is the “other” Roman way with salt cod: baccalà in guazzetto, simmered in tomato sauce. It may not be quite as famous as Rome’s iconic battered and fried salt cod filets called filetti di baccalà but it’s just delicious, although in a very different way. Simmering salt cod in tomato sauce—”in … Read More
Tagliatelle carciofi e funghi (Tagliatelle with Artichoke Hearts and Mushrooms)
In many ways, we lovers of Italian food here in the US are lucky. The current popularity of Italian food means that you can find just about any kind of Italian pantry product you like, from everyday staples like imported pasta or canned tomatoes to relatively esoteric ingredients like colatura … Read More
Coscia di tacchino ripiena al forno (Oven-Roasted Rolled Stuffed Turkey Thigh)
There’s nothing quite so impressive as a whole roast turkey brought to the table for carving. It’s almost guaranteed to elicit oohs and aahs from your dinner guests. It certainly did back in Rome when we prepared Thanksgiving dinner for our Italian friends. A whole turkey was a rare thing … Read More
Fave e cicoria (Fava Bean Purée with Chicory)
La cucina povera, or the cuisine of the poor, has become quite fashionable in recent years. Based on ‘humble’ ingredients (some of which have ironically become quite expensive) and simple cooking techniques, these traditional peasant dishes were born out of necessity. And yet they still appeal to us today, partly out … Read More
Salvia fritta (Fried Sage Leaves)
You may love sage like I do, for flavoring stews and beans, or sautéed with melted butter over stuffed pasta. But have you ever considered enjoying sage for its own sake? If you’ve ever experienced the peppery, rather bitter taste raw sage, the thought might not appeal to you. But … Read More
Shrimp Scampi
This blog is dedicated to continental Italian food—the kind of food you’ll find in Italy. But as long time readers will know, around this time of year we feature an Italian-American recipe. This year’s feature is a popular dish with a funny name: Shrimp Scampi. Funny to those who know Italian, that … Read More
Barchette di sedano con gorgonzola e noci (Celery Boats with Gorgonzola and Walnuts)
I don’t know about you, but when I’m making a “major” meal in the Italian manner, I tend to focus on the primo and the secondo. More often than not, I pick up dessert at a local bakery. And the antipasto? Well, when I’m pressed for time—and that tends to be … Read More
Salsicce e fagioli (Sausage and Beans)
Pork and beans were meant for each other—think franks and beans from the States or cassoulet from France, to take just two examples. Italians enjoy the combination, too, of course, as in the festive Cotechino with Lentils, or the rustic fagioli con le cotiche, or in this simple, everyday dish … Read More
Spaghetti alla Nerano
We’ve featured pasta and zucchini before, but this celebrated dish from the Sorrento peninsula is a bit more elaborate and intriguing. Spaghetti alla Nerano, named after the beach town where it originated, could be the child that your basic pasta and zucchini would have if it got married with a cacio e pepe. … Read More
Tale of Two Spritzes: Aperol Spritz and Campari Spritz
Summer is coming to a close and the temperatures around here are already getting downright chilly. But it’s not too late to enjoy two iconic summertime apéritifs: the Aperol Spritz and the Campari Spritz. These refreshing cocktails are made with Prosecco mingled with the bitter liqueur and topped off with … Read More
Peperoni al gratin (Peppers au gratin)
Here is one of the simplest ways to make peppers and, to my mind, one of the most delicious: peperoni al gratin, or peppers au gratin. Oven roasting intensifies and sweetens the natural flavors of the peppers, while garlic, olives and capers add piquancy, and a topping of seasoned breadcrumbs savor … Read More
Pollo al mattone (Chicken under a Brick)
Pollo al mattone, which I would translate roughly as “chicken under a brick”, is an ingenuous way of grilling chicken. The bird is butterflied, flattened and weighed down so it cooks quickly and evenly over hot embers. It sounds astonishingly simple—and it is—but by some sort of sorcery I can’t … Read More