I don’t know about you, but when temperatures rise into triple-digits (on the Fahrenheit scale) as they have lately in much of the Northern Hemisphere, even my enthusiasm for cooking begins to lag. That, and our impeding house move, has meant that any cooking that I do indulge in these … Read More
Baccalà mantecato (Baccalà Purée)
A not-so-distant cousin of Provençale brandade de morue, baccalà mantecato is one of the signature dishes of Venetian cuisine and a staple of those wonderful hidden-away Venetian bacari, or wine bars. The name of the dish comes from the verb mantecare, which is a culinary term meaning to ‘beat’ or ‘whip’ … Read More
Branzino al sale (Branzino Baked in Salt)
This will be a short post as I’ve come down with a nasty cold. No matter, since this is a short and simple recipe anyway, another example of the sublime simplicity of Italian cookery, branzino baked in salt. Yes, that’s what I said. Not to worry, the end result is not too … Read More
Quick Note: Brandade Pancakes
The new year brought a rush of activity that had made it hard to keep up with my blogging ‘duties’, but here is quick note on a nice idea for ‘recycling’ leftover brandade: just mix it up with an egg or two, give it a grind or two of black … Read More
Bagna cauda
Bagna cauda or, more properly, bagna caôda, means ‘hot sauce’ in English. It refers to a typical Piedmontese dish for communal eating that is popular in cold weather months, a kind of cross between fondue and pinzimonio, if I can put it that way. It is, quite simply, a collection … Read More
Fried Catfish: A Southern Classic
While Italian or other European dishes appear on our table most days, once in a while I do like to cook a dish from the New World, too. American food has a less than stellar reputation abroad. For many Europeans, it usually brings to mind junk food, fast food and … Read More
Catfish «en meurette»: A Classic Reimagined
The term en meurette refers to a dish that has been braised in a particularly delicious red wine sauce from the Burgundy region of France. Probably the best known of these dishes is oeufs en meurette, made from poached eggs. But even tastier, in my opinion, is fish made this way. … Read More
Risotto al nero di seppia (Squid Ink Risotto)
Here’s another installment from the colorful world of risotto. Last week we featured green risotto, this week it’s squid ink risotto aka ‘black risotto’, made with cuttlefish and its ink. Ingredients Serves 4-6 250g (8 oz) rice (see Notes) Broth, preferably homemade, or water, q.b. 250g (8 oz) cuttlefish or … Read More
