Olive ascolane (Ascoli Style Stuffed Olives)

Frankantipasti, Marche, snack43 Comments

Olive asolane

Olive ascolane—with their soft and savory meat stuffing surrounded by a crisp, breaded crust—are a speciality of Ascoli Piceno in the region of Le Marche, but they have become a staple on the tables of pizzerias in Rome, where I lived for so many years, and elsewhere in Italy. They are perfect for … Read More

Crostini di fegatini (Tuscan Chicken Liver Crostini)

Frankantipasti, Fall, Toscana15 Comments

Crostini (Tuscan Chicken Liver Crostini)

Crostini di fegatini—bread slices topped with a savory chicken liver paste—are the iconic Tuscan antipasto. In this version from Giuliano Bugialli’s classic work, The Fine Art of Italian Cooking, the liver paste is flavored unusually with  juniper berries, a touch that Bugialli says evokes the autumn hunting season. Whether or not … Read More

Trippa alla romana (Roman-Style Tripe)

FrankLazio, secondi piatti18 Comments

Trippa alla romana

Tripe was once a common part of the Italian diet, and no where more so than Rome. The inhabitants of the Eternal City are famous for their love of offal, which they jocularly call the quinto quarto, or the ‘fifth fourth’, a butcher’s term for those humble parts of the … Read More

Spezzatino di vitello con piselli (Veal Stew with Peas)

Franksecondi piatti, Spring15 Comments

Spezzatino di vitello (Veal Stew)

You might not know it from the weather around here, but spring is finally here. And one of the great delights of this time of year in Italy is the appearance of tiny young vegetables the Italians call primizie. While in this era of year-round asparagus the seasons are not quite so discernible in … Read More

Quick Note: Picchiapò

Franksecondi piatti23 Comments


We’re an old fashioned household in many ways. In the cooler months, making broth is a Sunday afternoon ritual in our house. And from broth comes boiled meat, an old fashioned treat that most people these days have never tasted. If it sounds to you like hospital food, think again. Italian … Read More

Beef Carpaccio: The Original Recipe

Frankantipasti, Veneto25 Comments

Beef Carpaccio: The Original Recipe

Beef carpaccio—known to Italians simply as carpaccio—is one of the most famous of Italian antipasti but the version most people are familiar with—thin beef slices macerated in olive oil and lemon, adorned with arugula and shavings of Parmesan cheese— is actually more precisely carne cruda all’Albese, a Piedmontese dish. The … Read More

Rotolo di tacchino (Roast Turkey Roll)

Franksecondi piatti21 Comments

Roast Turkey Roll

Turkey is a popular meat in Italy, often providing a less expensive alternative to veal in dishes ranging from scalloppine to ossobuco. But a whole roast turkey, Thanksgiving style, is a rarity. Back in Rome, I remember we had to special order our bird from a local butcher and presented … Read More

Milanese con insalata di pomodoro (Milanese Veal Chop with Tomato Salad)

FrankLombardia, secondi piatti, summer17 Comments

Veal Chop with Tomato Salad

I once knew a charming couple from Milan named Omer and Maria Grazia. My memory of them is a bit hazy by now—sadly, we lost contact and it’s been years since I’ve seen them—but two food-related memories still stick out in my mind. The first was the time I made … Read More