Arista di maiale con l’ananas (Roast Pork Loin with Pineapple)

Arista di maiale con l'ananas (Pork Loin with Pineapple)

Those of you who subscribe to the Memorie di Angelina newsletter or follow us on Substack will know that Ada Boni’s Il Talismano della felicità has finally been translated into English under the title The Talisman of Happiness. The publisher of the English edition was kind enough to send me a complimentary advance copy.

While I was leafing through the new translation, I happened upon a dish that, if I didn’t know the origin, I would never have pegged as Italian, let alone from one of the most authoritative Italian cookbooks of all time: arista di maiale con l’ananas, or Roast Pork Loin with Pineapple. At first I was skeptical but I went back to my Italian edition and, lo and behold, there it was.

An unusual combination

Pairings of meat and fruit do exist in Italian cookery—sausage and grapes is a classic example from Tuscany— but it’s not very common. I remember one time way back in the 1980s when I was a young New York lawyer, I went out to dinner at the Empire Diner with a friend from Rome.

My friend ordered guinea hen with a cherry sauce, more or less out of curiosity. It was something she said she would have never seen back home. Well, she took one bite and her face told the story. “How is it?” I asked. “Very American”, she replied. It wasn’t meant to be a compliment. We shared my order.

However unusual the combination of flavors, Boni’s recipe is typically Italian in at least one respect—its simplicity. You just brown a loin roast in garlic scented olive oil then, after a quick a splash of Prosecco, you roast it in the oven with pineapple cubes for an hour or so, until the pork is cooked through and the pineapple has caramelized nicely.

And as it turns out, pork and pineapple get along very well indeed. I get now why people eat ham and pineapple. I think even my Roman friend would approve. The sweet yet tangy fruit is a nice foil for the pork loin, providing lots of flavor to compliment a rather bland cut of meat.

It just goes to show, Italian cookery will never stop surprising you.

Ingredients

Serves 4-6 as a main course

  • 1 pork loin roast, about 1 kilo (2-1/4 lb)
  • 1 pineapple
  • 1 garlic cloves, peeled and slightly crushed
  • Prosecco
  • olive oil
  • salt and pepper

Instructions

Prep the roast

Truss the roast so it will keep its shape. (See Notes for details.)

Prep the pineapple

Trim the pineapple of its top and bottom. Then cut off its tough skin and core it. Cut the pineapple in half crosswise. Take one half and cut it into small cubes. Cut the other half into thin slices and reserve.

Brown the roast

In a Dutch oven, or a flameproof gratin dish or roasting pan, preferably oval and just large enough to hold the roast, sauté the garlic gently in abundant olive oil until it just starts to the brown around the edges. Remove it.

Raise the flame and place the roast in the pan. Brown the roast well on all sides, seasoning generously with salt and pepper as you go.

When the roast is nice and brown, add a good splash of Prosecco and let it evaporate.

Then add the cubed pineapple around the roast.

Roast

Transfer the pan with the roast and cubed pineapple in a moderate (180C/350F) oven for about an hour, or until the roast is cooked through but not dried out. Baste the roast from time to time with its cooking juices or, if things are drying out, a splash of Prosecco or water.

Remove the roast from the oven and let it rest for about 10-15 minutes.

Plate and serve

Arrange the reserved pineapple slices on a serving plate.

Then slice the roast, not too thinly, and arrange the slices over the pineapple. along with the pineapple cubes.

Nap the pork slices with their cooking juices and serve.

Arista di maiale con l'ananas (Pork Loin with Pineapple)

Notes

One of the tell tales signs that this recipe is Italian is its discrete use of garlic. A single clove should be only lightly browned over a gentle flame then discarded before the meat is added. Be careful not to overbrown or God forbid burn the garlic!

Choosing and roasting the pork loin

But the recipe succeeds or fails on the quality of its main ingredient, the pork and its proper roasting.

I’m guessing it wasn’t such an issue in Boni’s day, or perhaps even today in Italy, but these days most pork is bred to be extremely lean. Unfortunately along with the fat they bred out most of the juices and the flavor. And that’s especially true of the loin, which was already quite lean. If you can afford it, look for heirloom or heritage pork. The loin should be well-marbled and ideally still have some fat around it.

And be careful not to overcook the pork, lest it dry out. If you have a thermometer, aim for an internal temperature of 63-65C/145-150F. On the lower end of this range, the meat should be every so slightly pink. Otherwise, if you don’t have a thermometer, prick it with a knife or needle. If it’s done, the juices should run clear.

Though not mentioned in Boni’s recipe, it’s also a good idea to let the roast rest. This will ensure a juicier roast. But bear in mind that the internal temperature will continue to rise by a few degrees as it rests.

Trussing the roast

Trussing the roast isn’t strictly necessary, but it does help the roast keep a nice round shape. It’s not difficult once you get the hang of it.

Take a long bit of trussing string and loop it around one end of the roast, close to the edge. Tie a knot, then slide the string down maybe about 3 cm (1 inch) towards the other end of the roast and loop it around the roast again. No need to tie it this time. Keep sliding and looping until you get almost to the other edge, then turn the roast over and tie the string around each of your loops. Finally, loop the string over the other side and tie it up where your started. You should have something looking like the roast on the left.

It may all sound a lot more complicated than it really is, It’s a case where a video demo comes in handy. Take a look…

There are other ways to do it—some people actually tie and know each loop individually for example, but I find this to be the easiest method.

Variations

If I were to follow my instincts, I’d not bother with decorating the roast with pineapple slices. I’d either add more pineapple to the roast or just save it for dessert. I find the roast looks lovely enough with those lovely golden bits of caramelized fruit. But who am I to question a master like Ada Boni?

Boni doesn’t provide any variations on her recipe, but, to my surprise, I found several Italian recipes for arista di maiale con l’ananas in my research. Some call for onion instead of garlic. Some for butter rather than olive oil. Others for herbs like rosemary, sage or thyme. Or for Marsala instead of instead of Prosecco, leaning into the sweet side of fruit’s character. Yet others call for pineapple juice or, just before it has done cookng, a spoonful of balsamic vinegar. You will even see recipes for skewers of alternating slices of pork and pineapple roasted in a hot oven until golden brown.

And some call for filetto di maiale or pork tenderloin, rather than the loin. In these recipes, the tenderloin finishes cooking on the stove top in only 10-15 minutes or perhaps 20 in a hot oven.

Arista di maiale con l'ananas (Pork Loin with Pineapple)
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Arista di maiale con l’ananas

Roast Pork Loin with Pineapple
Prep Time15 minutes
Cook Time1 hour 15 minutes
Total Time1 hour 30 minutes
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Italian
Keyword: roasted
Servings: 6
Calories: 321.3kcal

Ingredients

  • 1 pork loin roast about 1 kilo (2-1/4 lb)
  • 1 pineapple
  • 1 garlic clove peeled and slightly crushed
  • Prosecco
  • olive oil
  • salt and pepper

Instructions

Prep the roast

  • Truss the roast so it will keep its shape. (See Notes for details.)

Prep the pineapple

  • Trim the pineapple of its top and bottom. Then cut off its tough skin and core it. Cut the pineapple in half crosswise. Take one half and cut it into small cubes. Cut the other half into thin slices and reserve.

Brown the roast

  • In a Dutch oven, or a flameproof gratin dish or roasting pan, preferably oval and just large enough to hold the roast, sauté the garlic gently in abundant olive oil until it just starts to the brown around the edges. Remove it.
  • Raise the flame and place the roast in the pan. Brown the roast well on all sides, seasoning generously with salt and pepper as you go.
  • When the roast is nice and brown, add a good splash of Prosecco and let it evaporate.
  • Then add the cubed pineapple around the roast.

Roast

  • Transfer the pan with the roast and cubed pineapple in a moderate (180C/350F) oven for about an hour, or until the roast is cooked through but not dried out. Baste the roast from time to time with its cooking juices or, if things are drying out, a splash of Prosecco or water.
  • Remove the roast from the oven and let it rest for about 10-15 minutes.

Plate and serve

  • Arrange the reserved pineapple slices on a serving plate.
  • Then slice the roast, not too thinly, and arrange the slices over the pineapple. along with the pineapple cubes.
  • Nap the pork slices with their cooking juices and serve.

Nutrition

Calories: 321.3kcal | Carbohydrates: 19.9g | Protein: 38.9g | Fat: 9.4g | Saturated Fat: 2.5g | Polyunsaturated Fat: 1g | Monounsaturated Fat: 4.4g | Cholesterol: 107.2mg | Sodium: 85mg | Potassium: 802.6mg | Fiber: 2.1g | Sugar: 14.9g | Vitamin A: 87.5IU | Vitamin C: 72.3mg | Calcium: 29mg | Iron: 1.4mg

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39 thoughts on “Arista di maiale con l’ananas (Roast Pork Loin with Pineapple)”

  1. What a beautiful looking recipe Frank. I love how the pineapple adds such sweet-tangy brightness to the pork loin, and your step-by-step write-up is clear. Truly a recipe that brings a little Italian flair and fun-flavour to the dinner table!

  2. David @ Spicedblog

    I had no idea that pineapples were a thing in Italian recipes! But with that said, this recipe sounds fantastic. It’s simplicity is a mark of its true staying power. And while I’m not a pineapple + ham on pizza kinda guy, I do agree that pineapple and ham go well together. It must be the sweet + salty thing.

    1. Well, in general, they aren’t a thing! Nor is sweet and salty but you will find some dishes out there. Especially in Tuscany it seems. Not only savory dishes with sweet notes like this one, but sweet dishes with savory notes. Watch out for this week’s post…

  3. I agree that pineapple and pork are a great combination. Is this commonly prepared in Italy or an Italian-American recipe? I’ve heard that it’s a no-no to ask for pineapple on pizza in Italy despite how popular it is in the States.

    1. Definitely not common but this recipe is pure Old World Italian. As for pizza, that is a no no but did you hear about the pineapple pizza they make at Sorbillo, one of Naple’s most renowned pizzerias? I was tempted to try it when I was there last year but chickened out.

      1. Hi Frank, Thanks for the info about pineapples. I, for one, could not get enough of pineapple added to pizza ‘back in the day’ when it became such a rage. Truthfully, I have to admit, whether or not it is a ‘no-no’, I still enjoy it. I heard that Sorbillo’s is in the States now. We were directed to eat at what is considered the #1 pizza place in Naples while we were there 2 weeks ago. It certainly did not live up to the ranking and we shoulda – coulda gone to Sorbillo’s instead. The tip and advice came from the international online community of “Local Aromas”, quite a good tour group hosted by 2 native Romans. Anyhow, thanks again for the recipe and background.

        1. Sorry you were disappointed! I’d be curious to know where you went so I can avoid it next time I’m in Naples, lol! Unfortunately there are places just for tourists that do live up to the hype, so I’m guessing it was one of those. The pizza I had in Naples was amazing.

  4. Frank, I would have never imagined pork loin and pineapple to be Italian-not in a million years. Should be a trick question in a trivia game (smile). It’s definitely a great pairing but, hard to imagine the Italians even eat a lot of pineapple and definitely not cook with it- Great post. I learn something every time I visit.

    Velva

  5. I did a double take on this post! I truly wasn’t expecting a savoury recipe with pineapple, but it does make sense. We usually pair pork with apple sauce so this isn’t that far off. I bet the house smelled wonderful as it roasted,.

  6. Am surprised – especially since I come from Australia where pineapple seems to be added to everything 🙂 ! Personally I have never been enamored in the fruit or adding it to meats but the simple way you have presented it does want me to try . . . the simplicity beckons methinks and > onion and Marsala for me perchance 🙂 ?

    1. Sounds like a winning combination, Eha. I think part of the appeal is that the natural pineapple is natural, without added sugar. Sometimes folks to use canned pineapple, which is much too sweet.

  7. Frank – Your photos look mouth-wateringly delicious. I could dig into the screen. You’re so right – the idea of fruit and meat is not without precedent in Italy. My cousin in Milan once made us faraona with raisins, mostarda, and oranges, a historic recipe from Mantova. I want to give your pork and pineapple a try.

  8. Pork and pineapple roasted together sound like a wonderful combination! I agree the sliced pineapple for serving isn’t necessary.

    1. Worth a try, Barb. And yes, I think they were big on decorative garnishes back in the day. These days we like to let the food’s natural beauty shine through at least in home cooking. And that’s my preference, too.

  9. When we visited Sicily one autumn, we saw pineapple for sale in the several markets in Palermo, and wondered how they were used. Our only encounter with them at the table was when slices drizzled with pale honey were served as a kind of encore at the end of a long leisurely afternoon dinner. Now we know another (possibly Sicilian?) Thanks, Frank! –

  10. we don’t eat pig in our house (you know they have the intelligence of a 3 year old human) but i do really like meat with fruit. Apricot chicken!? oh yes… And i reckon guinea hen with cherries sounds very delicious.
    cheers
    sherry

  11. Curious. I don’t see a step where any of the pineapple is cooked, yet the preface to the recipe speaks of caramelized bits? Clarify please?

  12. Thanks, I will be looking out for The Talisman of Happiness!
    I was quite surprised when I first read Apicius’ Ancient Roman recipes (some time ago), by how often honey, dates and figs were used with meat.

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