Calzoncini napoletani (Neapolitan Fried Turnovers)

Calzoncini (Neapolitan Fried Turnovers)

It probably won’t come as a surprise that Neapolitan cooks have come up with a vast variety of ways to fry and bake dough. Pizza is, by far, the most famous internationally, but there is much more to the Neapolitan repertoire. In fact, in her masterwork, La cucina napoletana, Jeanne Caròla Francesconi devotes a whole 30 page chapter to the subject of “Pizze e tortani“. Besides pizza, most people will also have heard of calzoni (recently featured in Parks and Recreation!) and many will even know about zeppole, both savory and sweet, and the real cognoscenti—including readers of this blog—will know about casatiello, the classic Neapolitan Easter bread we featured earlier this year. Then there are the savory pies that also go by the name of pizze, the most well known being the Eastertime pizza rustica. And then there are the pizzelle, a kind of fried mini-pizza, and then fritelle and paste cresciute, both more or less translatable as fritters, and on and on….

Another variation on the theme are calzoncini, little fried turnovers. There are various doughs that can be used, but a standard pizza dough, enriched with a few additional spoonfuls of  olive oil, does very well. You then form the dough into thin rounds, fill them with a savory mixture, and fold them over, making sure their edges are tightly sealed. You fry the resulting turnovers in abundant, hot olive oil—not too hot, though, or the filling will not cook through—then serve right away, sprinkled with a bit of salt. (If you want to eat them with your hands, of course, let them cool for a minute or two.) It’s a great way to use up some extra pizza dough that you may have leftover, but calzoncini are so good you may want to make a batch just for the purpose.The fillings, according to Ms. Francesconi, can include escarole sautéed in olive oil and flavored with capers, olives and anchovies, or a mixture of mozzarella, provola and ricotta, enriched with salami, parmigiano and egg. But my favorite is the old reliable combination of mozzarella, cut into small cubes, and an anchovy fillet or two.

Notes

By the way, believe it or not, the easiest way I find to stretch the dough into thin rounds is to use a tortilla press. Just make sure to line both sides with wax paper or plastic, which you carefully strip away, as pizza dough can be quite sticky.Very similar to the calzoncini are panzarotti, which distinguish themselves from calzoncini by their dough, which is made without yeast, and are cut out a bit like ravioli. But that’s the subject of a future post.

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17 Responses to “Calzoncini napoletani (Neapolitan Fried Turnovers)”

  1. 22 September 2012 at 18:02 #

    Thanks, Amelia. I can just imagine how delicious your nonna's must have been!

  2. 22 September 2012 at 18:01 #

    It's worth searching out, though hard to find, I imagine, outside Italy. Might want to try a Rizzoli bookshop if there's one close to you.

  3. 22 September 2012 at 18:00 #

    I understand perfectly why they disappear quickly!

  4. 22 September 2012 at 17:59 #

    Probably… ;=)

  5. 22 September 2012 at 17:59 #

    And thank YOU for stopping by, Nancy!

  6. 9 September 2012 at 16:38 #

    I love that you used a tortilla press for the dough, hehe:) But it really does work. Your turnovers sound out of this world! Thanks for sharing Frank.

  7. 4 September 2012 at 13:16 #

    Frank: my nonna used to make panzerotti, so these brought back memories. I love the idea of using the tortilla press to stretch the dough: what a great, useful tip!

  8. 31 August 2012 at 14:44 #

    Never came across these before. Sound like great snacks for a party. also really fascinated by the book you mentioned. Going to have search for that :)

  9. 31 August 2012 at 05:40 #

    My friend from Salerno used to make these and they disappeared like snowflakes on a warm day. I'd eat a bunch of these delicious fried treats. The tortilla press is a great idea, one I'd never have thought of.

  10. 30 August 2012 at 07:24 #

    tortilla press!… good for so many things
    - something about this makes me want several, could it be 'cause it's fried?

  11. 28 August 2012 at 21:27 #

    Grazie, Chiara. Buona settimana anche a te!

  12. 27 August 2012 at 06:24 #

    They are. ;=) Thanks for your comment!

  13. 27 August 2012 at 06:24 #

    Thanks, Sandra!

  14. 27 August 2012 at 05:58 #

    Sono una grande tentazione, hanno un aspetto splendido! Buona settimana Frank !

  15. Anonymous
    26 August 2012 at 14:59 #

    Sounds yummy!

  16. 26 August 2012 at 10:54 #

    Very tempting.

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