If I had to mention one dish in the Italian repertoire that epitomizes elegant summer eating, this might well be it: vitello tonnato, also called vitel tonnè in dialect, which means’ tunnied veal’ or simply veal in tuna sauce. More often than not, though, it is called by its Italian name in English as well. It makes for an elegant presentation, fit for an important dinner, but it is actually quite easy to make and, if made with pork or turkey rather than veal, quite inexpensive, too.
Ingredients
- 1 veal roast (or pork loin or turkey breast)
For the simmering liquid:
- 1/4 onion
- 1 carrot
- 1 stick of celery
- A bay leaf
- A few cloves
- A few whole peppercorns
- Salt
- One glass of dry white wine
- Enough water to cover the meat
For the tuna sauce:
- 2 whole eggs
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- Salt
- About 2 cups of olive oil
- 2-3 anchovy fillets
- 1 Tb capers
- 1 can of tunafish, packed in olive oil
For the garnish:
- Capers
- Lemon slices
- Parsley leaves
Directions
You begin with the meat. Classically speaking, this is a veal roast (see Notes below for the common cuts). But you can economize by using pork loin or—my favorite—pork tenderloin or turkey breast instead. Whichever you choose, prepare a kind of court bouillon by simmering the onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, cloves, salt and whole peppercorns in a mixture of white wine and water, about a glassful of wine and just enough water so that the liquid will entirely cover the meat when it is placed in the pot. (To be sure, you can place the meat in the cold liquid beforehand to see if there is enough liquid.)
Vitello tonnato (Tunnied Veal)
Ingredients
- 1 veal roast or pork loin or turkey breast
For the simmering liquid:
- 1/4 onion
- 1 carrot
- 1 stick of celery
- A bay leaf
- A few cloves
- A few whole peppercorns
- Salt
- One glass of dry white wine
- Enough water to cover the meat
For the tuna sauce:
- 2 whole eggs
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- Salt
- About 2 cups of olive oil
- 2-3 anchovy fillets
- 1 Tb capers
- 1 can of tunafish packed in olive oil
For the garnish:
- Capers
- Lemon slices
- Parsley leaves
Instructions
- You begin with the meat. Classically speaking, this is a veal roast (see Notes below for the common cuts). But you can economize by using pork loin or—my favorite—pork tenderloin or turkey breast instead. Whichever you choose, prepare a kind of court bouillon by simmering the onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, cloves, salt and whole peppercorns in a mixture of white wine and water, about a glassful of wine and just enough water so that the liquid will entirely cover the meat when it is placed in the pot. (To be sure, you can place the meat in the cold liquid beforehand to see if there is enough liquid.)
- After the aromatics and liquids have simmered for about 10-15 minutes, add the meat, raising the heat if need be to keep the water simmering nicely but it should not boil, which would toughen the meat. I cover the pot partially to reduce evaporation. Simmering time will depend on the meat you use, but the classic recipes call for cooking the veal roast around 60-90 minutes, depending on the size and the cut. (The original cuts were suitable for long simmering, modern recipes often call for loin, which should be just cooked through.) Pork loin should take about 60 minutes or less, while the tenderloin, which is quite a ‘skinny’ piece of meat, should take no more than 20-30 minutes. Turkey breast should take about the same as pork tenderloin.
- Remove the pot from the heat and allow the meat to cool completely, still immersed in its cooking liquid. This should take about an hour or so, and it results in a moister and more flavorful meat. But if you are in a hurry, you can remove the meat from the liquid and place it in the fridge to cool down quickly.
- While the meat is cooling, it is time to turn to the sauce. You begin by making a mayonnaise in a blender: place the two whole eggs (not just the yolks) in a blender with the juice of half a lemon and pinch of salt.
- Then turn on the blender to ‘purée’ and let it go for just a few seconds. The egg mixture will have turned frothy:
- Now turn the blender on again and, with the little clear plastic ‘window’ in the lid removed, starting pouring in olive oil little in a slow but steady stream, until the eggs and oil emulsify and you get a nice, thick and creamy mayonnaise. I believe that the classic proportions call for one cup of oil per egg, but I usually ‘eyeball’ it and stop when the mayo is nice and thick.
- By the way, this is one case where so called ‘light’ olive oil may be better than the dark green fruity kind, which would give the sauce a too strong olivey taste. Or you can use Provençale olive oil, which is more delicate.In any event, once your mayo is ready, add a fillet or two of anchovy, a spoonful of capers and a can of tunafish (preferably packed in olive oil). Blend again until smooth.
- Then temper the sauce with a couple of spoonfuls of the meat cooking liquid, enough to produce a pourable but still quite quick sauce. Transfer to a bowl.When the meat has achieved room temperature, remove it from its broth, pat it dry and place it on a cutting board. Slice it against the grain into thin slices.
- Now take each slice (you’ll probably need to do this by hand, otherwise use tongs) and dip in on each side in the tuna sauce and arrange the slices on a platter, each slice just slightly overlapping like so many roof tiles, in an attractive pattern. While pork tenderloin, there will be room for several rows of meat.
- Other cuts are larger, so you will probably need to make a single row or arrange them in a circular pattern on a large platter.Finally, finish the dish off by pouring over the top the remaining sauce. While you can serve the dish right away, it develops better flavor if you let it sit for several hours, overnight or—in some recipes—for a few days, so the flavor of the tuna sauce penetrates the meat completely. Before you are ready to serve, garnish the dish with capers and, if you like a more elegant presentation, some thin slices of lemon around the edges and some parsley leaves.
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Interesting that I saw another recipe calling to use hard boiled eggs, what are your thoughts on that?
https://www.greatitalianchefs.com/recipes/vitello-tonnato-recipe
It’s definitely not the first time I’ve seen a recipe call for hard boiled egg yolk. I’m guessing using hard boiled eggs eliminates any health related risks attached to using raw egg yolks? I’m fine with the idea, although being a bit lazy myself, if I can save a step in cooking I usually do! (Yet other recipes omit the egg altogether.) I’ll need to ask a Piemontese friend if one version or the other is more or less original.
Sounds like a wonderful recipe for a summer lunch. What sides and what wines would you suggest to serve with?
Thanks, Barbara! For the wine, I’d say a crisp white. As for a side, vitello tonnato is typically served as an antipasto so there’d be no side, but if you’d like to serve it as a second course, I’d opt for something fairly neutral like braised peas perhaps or sautéed spinach, or else a green salad that you’d serve afterwards. Enjoy!
Yes, I was thinking of serving it as a main—those suggestions sound perfect. I have been trying different styles of Vermentino…
I am confused. Is this supposed to be served cold, hot or at room temperature. Help anyone?
Room temperature.
Frank, For some reason I can’t see the photos for this recipe. I’ve tried Chrome, Firefox and Safari with no luck. Any ideas?
Sorry Nellie! We’ve been having some issues with the photos on the site ever since we recently switched servers. Check out the post now—you should be able to view the photos. If not, let us know!
I have been looking for a good recipe for vitello tonnato – I can’t find the one I used to make – got lost in a house move and this one looks very close to it. Che bontà !!
Thanks, Paola! So nice to hear from you! Cheers, Frank
This is a wonderful version and I’ve made it number of times now. Thanks so much!
Glad to know it! And thanks for your comment. :=)
I have also made this one today … due to your description I have made mayonnaise myself for the first time! It worked beautifully!
The whole dish … divine!
I will use the broth for cooking lentils.
Thank you
Love the sneaky ingredients in the mayo “a fillet or two of anchovy, a spoonful of capers and a can of tuna fish”. More like I like sneaking anchovies in to recipes when ever I get the chance to!
mmmmmmm, this is a great blog and reminding me of some of my first meals with my in-laws in Italy.
Beautiful dish and recipe. I am toying with doing the tuna-olive oil combination. Yes, in my head, it is all coming together as I look at your enticing photos.
This is one of my favorite sauces. Great post Frank, I bet that veal tasted awesome!
LL
The emulsion sauce with the eggs, anchovies, capers, and tuna is quite similar to a salad dressing that I make with the exception of the tuna.
I love the idea of using either pork tenderloin or turkey breast meat for the main protein in the court bouillon.
Bon appetit!
=:~)
Dear Frank!
Greetings!
We do eat a lot of veal as escaloppes with capers in France!
Your concept is new to me!
Thanks for sharing!
Ever heard Janis Joplin singing Summertime?
Mind you I do like Summertime Blues by the Who!LOL
Best regards,
Robert-Gilels
Oh my! You have hit upon my most favorite Foodie experience! We had this dish for the first time in a gorgeous Bistro Cafe in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. Unforgettable! Love the way you create this recipe making it easy for anyone.
Love, love, love Vitello Tonnato! They used to serve it at a restaurant I worked out and now I cannot find the same version anywhere. Had it with roast turkey once and it was also good. Thanks for the recipe! Will definitely be making it soon! Its the tuna sauce I die for! Could put it on anything!
beautiful recipe, love the flavors…I am finding it more difficult in locating tuna in oil these days, mostly packed in water…love the capers added…
I've never been brave enough to whizz a can of tuna with mayo you may have given me the inspiration I need.