Perhaps the most emblematic dish of the cuisine of Lombardy, the northern Italian region of which Milan is the capital, ossobuco (or oss bus in Milanese dialect) is veal shank, cut into thick rounds of shank meat around a marrowbone. It is typically served with risotto alla milanese, one of the few examples in traditional Italian cooking of the piatto unico combining both a primo and secondo on a single plate.
There are numerous versions of ossobuco, but most Milanese recipes call for making a simple soffritto of chopped onion sautéed in butter (or butter and oil).
Ingredients
Serves 4-6
- 4-6 veal shanks
- 1 medium onion, finely chopped
- Butter, or a mixture of butter and olive oil
- Flour, q.b.
- White wine
- A few canned tomatoes, chopped or puréed, to taste
For the gremolata:
- A few sprigs of fresh parsley
- 1 or 2 cloves of garlic, peeled
- The zest of one lemon
- Salt and pepper
Directions
Sauté the chopped onion in butter, or a mixture of butter and olive oil, under soft and translucent, taking care not to let it brown.
Then place rounds of veal shank, lightly floured and trimmed (see Notes below), and brown nicely on both sides. (Some recipes call for removing the onion to prevent its browning, but I find that simply shifting it to the edge of the pot works fine.)
Next, splash the veal shanks with white wine, scraping up the sucs that will have formed at the bottom of the pot, lower the heat and cover. (Most modern recipes call for some chopped or puréed tomatoes—which I like to add—but the original recipe is in bianco.) Simmer until quite tender, generally anywhere between 1-1/2 and 2 hours or more, depending on the age and quality of the veal. Add wine or water from time to time if necessary to prevent the pot from drying out, although some veal actually gives off quite a bit of liquid as it braises. At the end of cooking, the juices in the pan should be fairly abundant but thick.
Serve on a bed of risotto alla milanese, topped with gremolata—a mixture of parsley, garlic, lemon zest finely chopped together (a food processor comes in handy here) and mixed with salt and pepper—then nap each shank with the pan juices. You can, if you prefer, mix the gremolata into the sauce at the last minute before pouring over your veal shanks.
Notes
Ossobuco is one of those traditional dishes that has evolved many variations over the years. The above classic recipe appears in La cucina lombarda by Alessandro Molinari Pradelli, one of the excellent “Quest’Italia” series, and, with some minor variations, in Cuochi si diventa by Allan Bay (who, despite his Anglo-Saxon name, is a well-known contemporary Milanese gastronome) and many other cookbooks. One variation—which you will find in Artusi but also in Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, is the use of the so-called soffritto italiano, made with the ‘holy trinity’ of onion, carrot and celery rather than just onion. Perhaps it is just coincidence, but both Artusi and Hazan were romagnoli, not lombardi. Artusi, in fact, concedes that he is not an expert and the making of ossobuco should be left to the Milanese. That does not stop him, however, from offering his version of the dish. Still, made this way ossobuco is very, very good—perhaps more delicious than the more austere original version. In another version, in Le ricette regionali italiane, a single clove of garlic is very lightly browned in the butter and removed from the pot before veal shanks are added. Il cucchiaio d’argento suggests adding carrot and celery not as part of the soffritto but to the braising liquid. As mentioned above, the addition of tomato, which is very common today, is not original to the dish, but, again, it adds a lovely extra layer of flavor.
Recipes also vary widely as to the type and amount liquid in which to braise the veal shanks. White wine is perhaps most common braising liquid, but some recipes call for broth or even just water. The classic recipes call for adding only a bit of liquid to the pot at a time, a typically Italian technique of braising meat called ‘arrosto morto’, literally ‘dead roasting’ but more commonly referred to as ‘pan roasting’ in English. Hazan’s version, on the other hand, has you adding white wine and allowing it to evaporate completely (in the usual Italian fashion) before adding enough broth almost to cover the shanks, then placing them, covered, in a hot oven to braise in the typically French manner. This “Frenchified” version is quite good, and I may like it even better than the original.
The gremolata sometimes includes anchovy, as suggested by Ada Boni in Il Talismano della Felicità. I have also seen recipes that include rosemary and/or sage along with the parsley, and some include a bit of meat such as pancetta or prosciutto. I am not a fan of these variations, but try them if they appeal to you. And while risotto alla milanese is the classic accompaniment, ossobuco also goes very well with a plain risotto in bianco or mashed potatoes, or even just with some nice crusty bread.
The veal shank should ideally be from a very young, milk-fed calf, or it will lack the tenderness and delicacy of a true ossobuco. In fact, Allan Bay suggests foregoing ossobuco altogether and cutting older veal shanks into pieces and using it for stew. If you are less fastidious than Bay, just braise the veal for a bit longer until it is quite tender and almost falling off the bone. For older veal—which is most veal sold in the US—the Hazan method of braising the meat in abundant broth rather than the usual Italian arrosto morto method works better. You should trim the shanks by cutting slits in the membranes that hold the shanks together; otherwise, they will tend to curl up on themselves rather lay flat in the pot. Some cooks then tie the shanks with trussing string to prevent them from falling apart—a step that I normally skip do unless I’m making the dish for company.
There are a number of stories in circulation about the origins of the dish. If you read Italian, this page gives you some of the most common ones. The dish has ancient antecedents, but the modern recipe as described here dates from the very early 19th century.
The word ‘ossobuco’ comes from ‘osso‘ meaning bone and ‘buco‘ meaning hole. It refers to the ‘hole in the middle of the shank’—the marrowbone. A special treat for the diner is to scoop out the soft marrow from the bone and savor it. The operation is done with a tiny spoon sometimes jocularly called an ‘agente delle tasse’ or an ‘esattore’—a tax collector!
Ossobuco
Ingredients
- 4-6 veal shanks
- 1 medium onion finely chopped
- Butter or a mixture of butter and olive oil
- Flour q.b.
- White wine
- A few canned tomatoes chopped or puréed, to taste
For the gremolata:
- A few sprigs of fresh parsley
- 1 or 2 cloves of garlic peeled
- The zest of one lemon
- Salt and pepper
Instructions
- Sauté the chopped onion in butter, or a mixture of butter and olive oil, under soft and translucent, taking care not to let it brown.
- Then place rounds of veal shank, lightly floured and trimmed (see Notes below), and brown nicely on both sides. (Some recipes call for removing the onion to prevent its browning, but I find that simply shifting it to the edge of the pot works fine.)
- Next, splash the veal shanks with white wine, scraping up the sucs that will have formed at the bottom of the pot, lower the heat and cover. (Most modern recipes call for some chopped or puréed tomatoes—which I like to add—but the original recipe is in bianco.) Simmer until quite tender, generally anywhere between 1-1/2 and 2 hours or more, depending on the age and quality of the veal. Add wine or water from time to time if necessary to prevent the pot from drying out, although some veal actually gives off quite a bit of liquid as it braises. At the end of cooking, the juices in the pan should be fairly abundant but thick.
- Serve on a bed of risotto alla milanese, topped with gremolata—a mixture of parsley, garlic, lemon zest finely chopped together (a food processor comes in handy here) and mixed with salt and pepper—then nap each shank with the pan juices. You can, if you prefer, mix the gremolata into the sauce at the last minute before pouring over your veal shanks.
Notes
http://memoriediangelina.com/2011/01/23/risotto-alla-milanese/
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33 Comments on “Ossobuco alla milanese”
Pingback: Ossobuco di tacchino (Turkey Ossobuco) - Memorie di Angelina
This was so good Frank! And actually not that complicated to make :). I had a skype date with a friend and the meat just simmered away while we talked. Would definitely make it again if I can get veal on sale again. Here in Italy they also sometimes sell “ossobuco di tacchino” at the supermarket, but I’ve never tried to make it this way (it also had a bit too many bone shards for my husband’s taste, so I didn’t buy it very often).
Thanks! Delighted to hear you enjoyed the recipe. I remember ossobucco di tacchino. I actually rather liked it, bones and all…
This is a “dead of winter” dish for us. I love the variations – am thinking will try Hazan’s version. Will come to this again and again – interesting that since this dish got “chic,” the price of veal shanks skyrocketed.
Yep, veal shanks have gone through the roof, like lamb shanks—and a lot of cuts that used to be unappreciated and therefore cheap. I wonder if there are any bargains left…
I agree with the others readers: bravo Frank!, for sharing good recipes that to my Italian-born (Milano)/ex-cook&restaurant owner point of view do sound utterly and authentically Italian.
+ bravo! also for suggesting good Italian cookery books: both Molinari Pradelli and Allan Bay are excellent sources. I find Molinari Pradelli’s books very comprehensive but the recipes are often a little too sketchy (I think he merely recorded the recipes without testing them); Allan Bay’s book is much more limited in scope but the recipe are really sound and detailed.
For sake of sharing I checked other sources in relation to Ossobuchi:
Anna del Conte, the doyenne of Italian food here in the uk (much admired also by Hazan) says the true Milanese ossobuco should not have tomatoes (in The Food of Northern Italy).
Gianni Brera and Luigi Veronelli in La Pacciada do add a little tomato.
Ottorina Prina Bozzi (author of Vecchia Milano in cucina)does as well.
La Pacciada and Vecchia Milano in cucina are regarded as the modern bibles on Lumbardy cooking. In these two books the amount of tomato is minimal though, just a couple of tomatoes or very little tomato pure (the tip of a knive/”punta di coltello”).
Most sources agree: a very little tomato is allowed, but it is not essential by all means.
I think Hazan’s version is too red/too many tomatoes.
I agree with Anna del Conte: no tomato in my ossobuco: I find that too red a sauce clashes with the final gremolata and it does not work with saffron. Having said that I have never really enjoyed ossobuco with saffron risotto – too much. I prefer ossobuco either with some mashed potatoes or with some Risotto with butter and parmesan.
Ciao stef
Thanks Stefano! For your very kind words and the excellent suggestions for further investigation of Lombardy cuisine! I have to agree on the tomatoes—they really do alter the nature of the dish if you overdo. I guess I’d fall into the camp of adding one or two for a bit of color and taste, no more. But then again, of course, who am I to say? I’m not lombardo….
to Chiara,
Toast a piece of bread,Rub it with fresh garlic, spread the “Midollo” on the toast ,sprinkle with gremolata,and eat as an entree before Franks exquisite ossobuco.
Sounds yummy!
Ciao We simply love Osso bucco and we’ve always served it with polenta. Next time we’ll try it with the risotto — you certainly can’t go wrong. Papà always got the marrow — he loved it!! He was so sweet he would have given it to us but we knew how much he enjoyed it. And the addition of the gremolata is a must. Grazie per la tua ricetta. I look forward to the next trip down memory lane.
You’re welcome, Marisa. And now we know, your papà was a wise man!
adoro il midollo dell’ossobuco, è un boccone da re ! Buon fine settimana Frank !
Hai ragione, Chiara!
Your notes and variations are both informative and interesting! I’ve made osso buco annually in the dead of winter for years and years, using what I now know is called a soffritto (because that’s the way Craig Claiborne printed it in the New York Times).
I discovered this newsletter & website from a mention in Laura Pazzaglia’s Hip Pressure Cooking website. After making ossu buco by stove-top braising and in a slow cooker, let me tell you: Pressure cooker is the way to go! So fast (40 min under pressure) and soooo tender.
I’m a big fan of pressure cooking, too, Madeline. Thanks for stopping by!
It looks delicious. It is perfect for an autumn day. Actually I had it last night. In my recipe I don’t had tomatoes. Buon appetito 🙂
Sorry I don’t add..!
And that seems to be the majority opinion among the true connoisseurs on this page, Paola! Thanks for stopping by.
Ciao Frank,
This is a classic alright, one worthy of rolling out and showing off again and again. It’s that time of year when we all crave food like this, when opening the door and smelling the pot of food on the stove is about the most comforting thing I can imagine. This looks beautiful, and as always, your historical overview contributes to the enjoyment!
Thanks so much, Adri. 🙂
Fran, once again thank you for not only a wonderful recipe but a comprehensive historical and culinary overview of this classic dish.
Thanks, Paula!
Would prefer this on a bed of polenta. But then I’ve been known to serve cacciatore (rabbit and chicken) on a bed of polenta.
Well, just about everything goes well with polenta… 😉
I am so delighted I found this site. I think I stumbled on it somehow through the Elizabeth Minchilli site while I was on vacation recently in Rome and Florence and doing my daily restaurant planning.
I made the Peposo (tuscan peppery stew) the other night and it was stunning. It can be difficult to put this together with so few ingredients and expect anything special, yet that is exactly what you get. I say difficult becuase I found myself saying “Is that it?”… “maybe I should throw something else in there…” nope…. stick to the recipe. In fact this is what struck me when in Italy. The very first thing I ate was artichoke, parmesan and lemon juice. That’s it. Fantastic.
This recipe of Ossobucco is a wondeful example of one of the reasons this site is so interesting. The simple authentic recipe, some historical annecdotes, and some references to other interpretations as well as some personal thoughts and ideas.
If you had asked me to make Ossobucco last month I would have made a soffritto, thrown in red wine, beef broth, rosemary etc. add add add…. Certainly not a disaster – in fact quite nice, but I am now forced to pull back to the original recipe. Start from the beginning, keep things simple, think, reflect, respect.
Anyway, thank you sir. I look at your site on the weekends for my weekly inspiration
So glad to have you on board, Don!
Merci pour cette excellente recette ,nous nous sommes régalé .
Je l’ai accompagné du risotto à la milanaise ,j’ai suivi vos conseils et tout était parfaitement parfait.
Je referai.
Bravo Frank!! Well done a beautiful recipe.
Wonderful post! I really love the notes you added regarding this dish 🙂
This is a lovely dish! Hope to make it soon!
Ossobuco is severely under-appreciated in New England, and something I find myself craving but I can't get the veal! Needless to say I'm drooling here, what a delectable meal this is.
Someday I will make this at home. I love this dish, but I often order it at restaurants versus taking the time to fully understand it in the kitchen. Your post reminds me that I need to take the time to become better acquainted with foodie favorites!
bone marrow and saffron – I love the sound of this. Especially the bone marrow. I can imagine this taste very flavourful.