There’s something so comforting about creamy gratins. Who wouldn’t go for that bubbly, cheesy, warming goodness? Cauliflower Gratin is not exclusively Italian, of course—the Brits have their Cauliflower Cheese and the French their chou-fleur au gratin— but I think it is particularly nice made with Italian cheeses like Parmesan and … Read More
Il Gran Bollito Misto (Mixed Boiled Meat)
We usually think of boiled meat as a by-product of making broth, a humble if comforting dish for parsimonious souls. But in northern Italy, particularly in the Piemonte and Emilia-Romagna, they’ve transformed the dish into a regal spread. Traditionally, a true Gran Bollito Misto includes seven different cuts (tagli) of beef … Read More
Quick Note: Picchiapò
We’re an old fashioned household in many ways. In the cooler months, making broth is a Sunday afternoon ritual in our house. And from broth comes boiled meat, an old fashioned treat that most people these days have never tasted. If it sounds to you like hospital food, think again. Italian … Read More
Frittata di maccheroni avanzati (Leftover Pasta Frittata)
Leftover pasta is generally pretty bad when reheated. But there is one great way to recycle leftover pasta: as a pasta frittata. All you do is mix your leftovers with eggs and grated cheese, perhaps some minced parsley for color, and a bit of salt and pepper if it needs … Read More
Polpettone in umido con funghi (Meatloaf in Tomato and Mushroom Sauce)
As the temperatures dip, I find myself seeking out comfort foods. And what says ‘comfort’ more than a good meatloaf? And, yes, Italians make meatloaf too. They call it a polpettone or big meatball. Makes sense if you think about, doesn’t it? We’ve already seen Angelina’s southern Italian style meatloaf, stuffed … Read More
Pollo all’ischitana (Ischia-Style Chicken)
After last week’s look at gnocchi alla sorrentina, Sorrento’s classic gnocchi dish, let’s travel across the Bay of Naples to the lovely island of Ischia. During our years in Rome, Ischia was one of our favorite spots for a getaway from the city. A bit less touristy and more rustic than … Read More
Bastille Day Special: Steak au poivre (Peppercorn Steak)
In cooking as in life, simpler is oftentimes better. French cooking may have a reputation for complication, but, in reality, many classic homestyle dishes from “over the Alps” (d’oltralpe, as the Italians refer to things French) are quite simple. To me, there is nothing that quite captures the spirit of simple, … Read More
Polpo alla griglia (Grilled Baby Octopus)
One of the very best seafood for grilling has got to be the octopus. Grilled baby octopus has incredible flavor, it is a pleasantly chewy but not tough—when properly prepared—and it crisps up beautifully under the grill’s intense heat. There’s a good reason why it’s a favorite summertime dish all … Read More
