When we think of Strudel, for most of us the sweet German (and northerneastern Italian) dessert made with apples will come to mind. But did you know that a Strudel can be savory, too? Well, it can, at least in Italian cookery. And if anything I rather like the savory … Read More
Taccole con pancetta e pomodoro
Snap peas, called taccole or piselli mangiatutto in Italian, are one of spring’s most delightful vegetables. Sweet, crisp and toothsome, they are very easy to cook. And, best of all, they don’t need that tedious shelling needed that fresh peas do. The specimens you’re likely to find in Italy (at … Read More
Scaloppine di pollo alla valdostana
I’ve always been puzzled by the popularity that chicken breasts enjoy, in particular here in the US. If you ask me, I’d nominate them as the world’s least interesting protein. Especially in this age of industrial poultry farms, chicken breasts tends to lack any discernible flavor, and then they dry … Read More
Maccheroncini al fumè (“Smoky Macaroni”)
Today’s recipe for “Smoky Macaroni” is a rare beast. Smoked foods in general are fairly unusual in Italian cookery outside of the northeast of the country, in regions like Alto Adige-Südtirol and Friuli Venezia Giulia once dominated by the Austrian Empire, where the influence of Mietteleuropa is still felt. But … Read More
Carciofi in fricassea (Artichokes in egg and lemon sauce)
Artichokes and eggs get along very nicely, don’t they? Artichokes are a classic filling for frittata and if you’ve ever tried it, you’ll know why. They’re delicious baked with egg or fried in egg batter. Or what about an egg, sunny side up, as a topping for braised artichokes? There … Read More
Calamari ripieni (Stuffed Calamari)
Everybody, it seems, loves fried calamari. But there are lots of other ways to enjoy this tasty mollusk. It’s delicious braised with peas in the Roman manner, for example, or with greens, after the Florentines. But I think calamari really comes into its own when it’s filled with a savory … Read More
Scrippelle ‘mbusse (Crepes in Broth)
This lovely dish comes to us from the province of Teramo on the eastern slopes of the Gran Sasso in the region of Abruzzo. Scrippelle ‘mbusse, literally meaning ‘wet crepes’ in local dialect, are just that: light crepes (crespelle in standard Italian) that are filled with grated cheese, rolled up … Read More
Cipollata calabrese (Calabrian Style Braised Red Onions)
These days it’s become quite chic to claim one dish or another is an example of la cucina povera, or the cooking of the poor. But this one is the real deal. Cipollata calabrese, Braised Red Onions in the Calabrian Style, got its start as a meal for shepherds while … Read More
