Spaghetti alla puttanesca




Spagetti alla puttanesca is another weeknight stand-by in our house. So quick and—for lack of a better word—lusty.

You begin as if you were making an aglio, olio e peperoncino, lightly sautéing a few cloves of garlic, along with a peperoncino or two, in olive oil in a skillet until the garlic is just beginning to brown a bit. Then add canned tomatoes, crushed with your hands, and simmer until the tomato is well reduced to a saucy consistency and separated from the oil. Add, to taste, capers, anchovy fillets and black Gaeta olives. Turn off the burner and let them cook just with the residual heat. If you like, you can also add some chopped parsley, just before you add spaghetti, cooked very al dente in well salted water. Mix well and serve immediately.
NOTES: Of course, as with all classic dishes, there are any number of variations on the theme. The above recipes is my personal variation, actually, on the classic recipe, which would have you add the anchovies, (chopped) capers and, if using, olives to simmer along with the tomatoes. In the classic version, these garnishes lend their flavor to the sauce. Personally, I prefer to leave the anchovy fillets whole, and add  these garnishes at almost the very end, barely cooking them only with the residual heat in the skillet. This preserves the individual ‘personality’ of each ingredient. The portions of capers, olives, anchovies and peperoncino can be adjusted to your personal taste. Some recipes omit the olives, while some call for chopped parsley to be added to the sauce just before the pasta. I’ve seen recipes calling for onion and/or basil as well, although these ingredients would tend to give the sauce a ‘mellower’ character that I personally don’t associate with a puttanesca.And, please, no grated cheese…

The sauce is at its best if you use salted anchovies (which need to be filleted and rinsed) and salted capers, but if you don’t have any on hand, anchovies packed in oil and capers in vinegar will do. (Rinse the capers, whether in salt or vinegar before using them.)

As some of you probably know, the name of the sauce comes from the word puttana, which means “whore”. (Hey, don’t kill the messenger!) The dish is also sometimes called by the slightly more genteel name of pasta alla malafemmina, which loosely translates into something like ‘naughty lady’ or even ‘ evil woman’ or just ‘streetwalker’. It is also known by the even more euphemistic pasta alla belladonna–’beautiful woman’. I’ve always heard two stories about where the name comes from. One is that the name is a tongue-in-cheek allusion to the ‘lusty’ nature of the sauce. The other is that being very quick to make, this dish was favored by professional ladies because it could be prepared and eaten between ‘shifts’. The dish is probably Neapolitan in origin, although some think it may be Sicilian. But stories abound about how the dish got its name. (For those who want more background and read Italian, check out this interesting blog entry or this one. For some background in English, click here.)

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Categories: pasta, primi piatti

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11 Comments on “Spaghetti alla puttanesca”

  1. 20 July 2011 at 05:25 #

    I love a night with a good whore. Whore-Style' Spaghetti on a plate that is!

  2. Anonymous
    7 November 2009 at 03:37 #

    looks so yummy………..:D

  3. 5 November 2009 at 19:40 #

    So much good food, so little time. Can't wait to try this. Loved the history of the name!

  4. 5 November 2009 at 13:12 #

    Love the bit of history on how this dish got it's name :) a lusty dish indeed!

  5. 5 November 2009 at 12:54 #

    I love puttanesca. Make it all the time. It's all about the capers! :)

  6. 4 November 2009 at 22:49 #

    nice story, i love its

  7. 4 November 2009 at 22:09 #

    Love this recipe and love the background on the name!! I always learn something when I visit your blog :)

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Pasta alla capricciosella (Pasta with Squid, Mushrooms and Peas) | Memorie di Angelina - 10 March 2013

    [...] Spaghetti alla puttanesca (Spaghetti with Anchovy, Olives and Capers) [...]

  2. Aglio, olio e peperoncino (Pasta with Garlic, Oil and Red Pepper) | Memorie di Angelina - 26 February 2013

    [...] Spaghetti alla puttanesca (Hooker’s Style Spaghetti) [...]

  3. Baccalà alla napoletana | Memorie di Angelina - 26 October 2012

    [...] Baccala alla napoletana, Naples-style codfish, is a simple dish of bold flavors reminiscent of pasta alla puttanesca. You begin, as usual, by soaking the salt cod for up to 24 hours in several changes of water. Drain [...]

  4. Tomato Sauce 101 | Memorie di Angelina - 21 October 2012

    [...] can make penne all’arrabbiata, add some anchovies and a few capers and you’ll have a puttanesca; add some canned tunafish and you’ll have a pasta al tonno. And so on, ad [...]

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