Spaghetti con pomodoro crudo

Summertime is fast approaching, the temperature is climbing, and my culinary imagination is starting to turn to dishes that quick but tasty and require minimal cooking. Here’s one of the ‘go to’ summer pasta dishes in our house: spaghetti with a raw tomato sauce. 
 
The sauce should be made at least an hour ahead: take some best quality tomatoes (see Notes), cut them in half and scoop out the seeds, then chop them up into small chunks. Throw the tomato chunks into a large bowl, add a few cloves of finely chopped garlic (this is one of the few cases where a garlic press actually comes in handy), a handful of fresh basil, chopped as well, freshly ground pepper and enough olive oil to moisten all the ingredients very well—it should almost cover them. Let this mixture rest for at least an hour and up to three or four hours. This lets the flavors develop and meld. Leave it too long, however, like overnight, and the garlic flavor—which intensifies over time—may become overwhelming.
 
You need to salt this ‘sauce’ generously. Most recipes call for you to add the salt together with other ingredients. But if you are planning to leave the sauce to rest for more than an hour and/or if your tomatoes are watery, then hold off salting until about 30-60 minutes before you are ready to eat. 
 
Once the sauce has rested, boil your spaghetti (or other pasta—see Notes below) al dente and add it, well drained, to the sauce and serve immediately. No grated cheese is needed or wanted for this dish. 
 
Measurements: The main ratio is that of tomato to pasta. I find that the usual 1:1 ratio of condimento to pasta works fine, but you may even want to up this to as much as 1.5:1. So if you are having four people, say, use 400-600 grams (14-21 oz.) of tomato and 400 grams (14 oz.) of pasta. I usually use about one garlic clove per person (if they’re not too big) and enough basil to balance out the tomato—see the picture to see what I mean. As usual, exact measurements are not particularly important. 
 
NOTES: This being a simple dish based on raw ingredients, the freshness and quality of those ingredients is crucial to the success of the dish. Most importantly, the tomatoes must not be overly watery and should actually taste like something. This dish is at its best when local tomatoes start arriving in the markets. But I have found that very small tomatoes, like cherry or grape tomatoes, or the greenhouse-grown ‘Campari’ tomatoes have excellent flavor and are not overly watery. If all you can find are those pinkish supermarket tomatoes, you may want to try another dish.

If your tomatoes are young and flavorful, they can be cut up as they are and added to your mixing bowl. But if you have any doubts about them, you can also improve the flavor and texture of your tomatoes by sprinkling the chunks in salt and draining them in a colander for 30 minutes or so before mixing them with the other ingredients. This should purge them of their excess water and concentrate their flavor. If you are dealing with larger tomatoes, you may want to peel their skin, which can be tough. Peeling a raw tomato is almost impossible to do, so you may want to either blanch them very briefly in boiling water or char them over a gas flame, which makes peeling much easier. 
 
Of course, besides the tomatoes, the basil and garlic should be as fresh as it can be and the olive oil as green and fruity as you can find it. 
 
Variations of this basic recipe abound: my favorite is to add some red pepper flakes, to taste, to the raw sauce. (NB: Like garlic, the flavor will intensify the longer it rests, so beware.) You can also add other typical summer ingredients like capers, olives, mozzarella, tunafish, anchovies. In addition to or instead of the garlic, some chopped white or red onion is very nice. (Avoid yellow onion, which has too strong a flavor to use raw, but if you have no other choice, soaking it in several changes of cold water will mellow it out.) A nice variation in technique is to place the raw sauce in the fridge, taking it out only just before adding the hot pasta; the combination of hot and cold produces some sort of reaction that gives the dish a very special taste.
 
In Roman cookery, this dish, made with slightly underripe tomatoes, olives, capers and fennel seeds, and often mozzarella and/or caciotta cheese, goes by the rather impolite name of pasta alla checca. (The word ‘checca‘ being a pejorative Roman slang word for a gay guy, perhaps a reference to the fennel seeds, since the Italian word for fennel, finocchio, is another slang word meaning the same thing.)
 
You can also use other types of pasta. Linguine, of course, but also those stubby, concave pastas like conchiglie work very well with this sauce—perhaps even better than long pasta, as their nooks and crannies catch bits of tomato or other ingredients.

Tags: , , , ,

Categories: pasta, primi piatti

Subscribe

so you'll never miss a post...

17 Comments on “Spaghetti con pomodoro crudo”

  1. 9 July 2010 at 13:06 #

    Thanks, folks, for all your kind remarks!

    And special thanks to @floridafoodies for the backlink and recognition. I am honored!

  2. 9 July 2010 at 10:38 #

    Wonderful recipe for the summer. This recipe is listed as a link on our Featured Blogger's page located at http://www.floridafoodies.net/p/featured-foodie-blogs.html . Thanks for sharing!

  3. 16 June 2010 at 06:12 #

    It's screaming summer… what an awesome recipe!

  4. 7 June 2010 at 08:40 #

    I love this kind of summer meels. Try penne,rucola,provola and pomodoro crudo. :-) Compliments for your blog!

  5. 6 June 2010 at 06:04 #

    I really like this, I had never seen pasta with raw sauce. I guess the key is to find really good tomatos…

  6. 5 June 2010 at 19:18 #

    This is the essence of summer…

  7. 5 June 2010 at 15:18 #

    catapultata tra il sole e i profumi italiani: quando si dice che la semplicità dà i risultati migliori!

  8. 5 June 2010 at 12:59 #

    oooh, this is a must-try :)

  9. 5 June 2010 at 12:20 #

    I made fresh pasta and sauce last night….this dish makes me want to do a repeat tonight.

  10. 4 June 2010 at 20:38 #

    I love simple food and this pasta is not only simple, but its so pretty! Perfect for a scorching LA afternoon…

  11. 4 June 2010 at 19:26 #

    This recipe makes me wish i were back in Sicily.

  12. 4 June 2010 at 16:55 #

    A terrific summer dish. I like to add cubed mozzarella to the pasta as I'm mixing it all together.

  13. 4 June 2010 at 16:44 #

    Definitely will try this later on when tomatoes are in full season. What a simple dish but most often these are the best.
    Thanks so much for sharing

  14. 4 June 2010 at 15:55 #

    Thanks for all the info. When my tomatoes ripen later this summer, I'd like to try this. I go even more pasta-crazy then but I've never prepared a raw sauce. I'll be bookmarking this, thanks again.

  15. 4 June 2010 at 14:20 #

    Absolutely delicious and perfect for a warm spring evening.

  16. 4 June 2010 at 12:01 #

    hellllllllllo there! found you on foodbuzz! :) your page is lovely! feel free to drop by my page when you have the time! thanks a bunch.

    jen @ http://www.passion4food.ca

  17. 4 June 2010 at 11:46 #

    Simply gaw-geous!

Your comments are always appreciated!

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 29,798 other followers

%d bloggers like this: