There are two primary ways of making pizzaiola, quick or slow, depending on the kind of meat you are using:
The Quick Method: If you are using tender, lean beef, then you want to opt for the quick version. In Italy, they sell thinnish (but not paper thin) slices of beef called fettine di manzo or just fettine. If you can’t find anything like that, you can use boneless steaks (as pictured). If they are any thicken than say, 2 cm (1/2 inch) then I would suggest that you cut them into half thicknesses. In either case, pound your slices with a meat pounder or the back of a heavy skillet. Pat each slice dry to ensure good browning.
Add enough olive oil to nicely coat the bottom of a heavy skillet. Turn the heat to high and when the oil is very hot, quickly brown a clove or two of garlic (taking care that it does not burn) then add the beef slices and sear them quickly on each side. They should be just lightly caramelized. Don’t crowd the slices which, as you probably know, would impede proper browning—you can do them in batches if need be. Remove the slices as they brown.
After the pizzaiola sauce has simmered for a minute or two, add back your beef slices and continue to simmer away for about 10 minutes, until the sauce has reduced nicely and the meat is fully cooked through. You want to keep your sauce simmering at a moderate pace—not too slowly or the sauce will not reduce, but not too quickly either, which would tend to toughen the meat. Although I usually love my beef ‘barking’ rare, this is one dish where the meat really has to be well done, both so that the beef has time to absorb the flavor of the sauce and because, for whatever reason, tomato sauce and rare beef do not really pair very well.
NOTES: The measurements are really pretty loose in this dish, but you may want to make ample sauce, which is wonderful with pasta, either as a first course to the meat or saved for another occasion. The sauce from the slow method is, of course, much more savory.
Variations abound, in particular for the quick method: for a lustier sauce, you may want to add olives, capers, anchovies and/or a bit of red pepper flakes. Some recipes, including Francesconi’s, recommend adding a bit of white wine as well which gives the sauce a little ‘zip’. Some recipes head in the opposite direction, so to speak, and omit the oregano and other flavorings in favor of a pure tomato sauce, although frankly that sounds a bit dull to me. Some modern recipes will substitute a soffritto of onion, carrot and celery for the garlic, which provides a more ‘refined’ but less characteristic flavor. Not all recipes call for the initial searing of the meat slices, but I find that it lends a nice depth of flavor.
The basic method is very versatile. Other sorts of meat or even fish can be made using the same method: older veal, for example, or chicken or turkey breast. As for fish, choose one with nice, firm texture that will stand up to the assertive sauce, say some swordfish, tuna or mackerel, cut into ‘steaks’. And you can even make hamburger patties this way!
Thanks, Rocco! Glad to hear I'm up to nonna's standards…
ive read many pizzaiola recipie but this is the first one ive found to be accurate with how la nonna does it. went to visit her today and after having me do a million chores with my tools she had a huge plate of pasta with steak pizzaiola. she is the real deal by the way. 98 year old lady that does not speak a word of anything else but Niapolitan dialect.
complements to the cheff
these looks very good : ) i want try one
You’re a very good writer!
Mmmm, these looks so good! I definitely want to try these
Mmm. That looks fabulous. We will have to give this a try. Thanks for sharing both techninques.
Hi Frank
I have not had this dish in so long, and I don't know why…..what a tasty way to prepare just about any meat!
I will have to revisit this recipe soon!
Dennis
Great looking dish. Very traditional and homemade feeling to it.
Thanks folks! Your comments are really too kind…but keep them coming anyway.
@Debbie: I actually have a post just on the subject of choosing canned tomatoes, which can be a little tricky. There's a link to it on the righthand column under “Basic Recipes and Cooking Techniques”.
@Kate: And thank you for the wonderful feedback. It's great to hear that these recipes are being made and enjoyed! But really you should thank Angelina: I'm just the messenger, passing on her recipes…
Frank, as always, a great recipe!! We made your eggplant parmesan the other night. I was a bit worried because my husband said absolutely nothing. Then, I realized he was just concentrating on plate to mouth, plate to mouth. I asked what he thought and he said, “This is the BEST eggplant parmesan I've EVER had.” Hopefully, I'll get it on my blog if that's ok with you. So, thank you very much!!! Kate@kateiscooking.blogspot.com
What an informative post! I didn't even know what pizzaiola was, but I do love pizza. I am excited to try something new, what kind of canned tomatoes do you use?
yummy! looks like so tasty! I'll try to make it soon.
I've died, went to heaven, and come back again so I can read more….ciao
yummy! what a delicious recipe! I want to take it tasty!
This looks like a dish that my hubby and kids (dedicated pizza lovers) would gobble up. And I love the idea of crushing the tomatoes with my hands!
I have been a little away from the blogs lately, but it's always great to come and visit you, you always have something deliciously authentic. I know of penne alla pizzaiola, but never tasted the meat.
Un piatto squisito, una delle tante icone della cucina italiana. personalmente penso che in questa preparazione, il manzo sia insuperabile. Complimenti.
Ciao
I remember watching Everybody loves Raymond and Marry making her secret piazzola. From that moment I was hooked! I am so glad I have found your blog! Love the Italian cuisine!
I've never tried this dish…lokks amazing!
I don't know this at all. But with ripe tomatoes abundant – this would be the best time to try it. I like the lusty verions: anchovies, olives, etc. I am wondering if my family ever made this…
hey Frank, enjoyed reading this as I always do your posts – this sounds much how my Momma cooked her pork chops with canned tomatoes. Still is one I like to visit every now and again…